Paul Matson's Birding Blog: Botswana and Zambia July 2015

Another journey to this amazing part of the world in Southern Africa and the Zambezi valley. Given time and money are always precious, one might think I would plan a birding trips to a new part of the world with the prospect of lots of new species available. Or, if journeying to southern Africa would I not normally divert to Zimbabwe to see my brother ?. but this time our friends Susan and Koos were getting married in Livingstone, so this trip was planned around those festivities.

Firstly a six night safari in Botswana arranged with our friends at Wildlife Trails.

Saturday July 18th - Journey to Chobe Bush Lodge

We arrived at Livingstone airport in Zambia via Jo'burg on a SA flight that went without any hitches. We had to buy multi-entry visas for Zambia as we were exiting the country immediately then returning again in six days (which was a bit costly !). We were met at the airport and transferred to the Chobe Bush Lodge in Kasane in Botswana. So having just arrived, we left Zambia, then arrived in Botswana, being picked up the other side of the Zambezi following a boat transfer , at each stage having our passports stamped, it all seemed a little much after a long journey but it was only 20 minutes from the Botswana border to the Bush Lodge so we arrived just before 4pm which was under 24 hours from leaving home. The Bush Lodge looked fantastic and the rooms were luxurious. We arranged the next 2 days activities and relaxed for the evening.

My bird list had kicked off with a Pied Kingfisher and African Jacana on the river crossing and a smart Collared Palm-Thrush at dusk outside our room at the Bush Lodge near to where the Warthogs were digging !

Warthog outside our room

Sunday July 19th - Chobe NP and Chobe Bush Lodge

The morning started with an early morning game drive. At this time of year (being the middle of dry Winter) there is barely a cloud in the sky with daytime temperatures reaching the late 20''s C but mornings and nights being surprisingly chilly. So we were rugged-up in the open Landcruiser and wrapped in blankets provided as we drove the 30 minutes to the edge of the Chobe National Park entrance. The National Park is big and dominated by the Chobe River with game drives progressing alongside the river and into the very African Acacia scrubland .

Many water birds were seen with Yellow-billed, African Openbill and Marabou Storks, Great and Cattle Egrets, Glossy and Sacred Ibis. Raptors were limited to White-backed Vultures and Tawny Eagle, whilst Crowned and African Wattled Lapwings were common along with Blacksmith Plovers and the occasional Black-winged Stilt. African Skimmers were seen rather distantly on the River along with Grey-headed Gulls and Red-billed Hornbills were everywhere (or Tsazu's as Adie kept calling them) with a few African Grey Hornbills.

We were seeing plenty of animals with a very large herd of Buffalo, several Giraffe, Impala, Kudu and Puka Deer. Troops of Baboon, good number of Hippo in the river and a local species of Red Lechwe Deer.

Smaller birds are often more difficult to pick up from a moving vehicle but I added Grey Lourie, Little Beeater, Lilac Breasted Roller, Crested Barbet. Grey-rumped Swallow,Southern Black Tit, Long tailed Shrike, Tropical Boubou and White-crested Helmetshrike

We returned to the Lodge for a full breakfast by 10.30.

A view over the Chobe with a large buffalo herd.

An early morning White-backed Vulture

Sunrise

Yellow-billed Stork

Giraffe

Baboon

Southern Red-billed Hornbill or 'Tsazu'

In the afternoon we went on a Sunset Cruise ... always a bit risky when you have a boat with around 40 people on as to whether it will be good or just frustrating, but it turned out to be excellent.. This part of the Chobe river has numerous islands with large numbers of animals, particularly sizeable herds of Elephants and Buffalo and viewing from the boat was exceptional.

An additional number of waterbirds were also seen with African Darter, Reed Cormorant, Goliath Heron, Purple Heron, Squacco Heron, Black Egret, Spur-Winged Goose, Comb Duck, Red-billed Teal, Long-toed Lapwing, White-Crowned Plover, Giant Kingfisher, Malachite Kingfisher, and Water Thick-Knee.

It obviously helped that the boat had a decent supply of cold beer !.

Black Egret

Large numbers of African Elephant

African Openbill

Buffalo

More Ele's

African Fish Eagle

Red Lechwe

African Spoonbill

Giraffe - Must be annoying when you drop something.

Pied Kingfisher

Chobe Sunset - well it was a sunset cruise.

Monday 20th July - Chobe NP and Chobe Bush Lodge

A similar day was planned to yesterday, although we went on a morning boat trip in a small boat so just us and a boat driver/guide , and in the afternoon another game drive in the National Park.

The morning boat was to the same area as yesterday, a Lanner Falcon flew over the lodge as we walked down to the boat. It started with a new bush buck but otherwise the animals were the same as yesterday although we got rather close to a couple of Hippos . A Little Sparrowhawk and African Marsh Harrier were new raptors and a Coppery-tailed Coucal was actually a lifer for me.

Marabou Stork - possibly the ugliest bird on the planet.

Wattled Starlings and Red-billed Oxpeckers were more visible around the Buffalo herds and African Stonechat were seen in the reeds.

Vicious beast

This Hippo was chasing our boat. !

Sizeable on land but more dangerous in water.

African Skimmer

About to skim with it's longer lower mandible.

Another ele

Just to prove they have teeth

Lilac-breasted Roller

Nile Crocodile

African Marsh Harrier

Back at the lodge, I sat with the girls before lunch in the pool area which overlooks some dry scrub, a bird party went through with many Greater Blue-eared Glossy Starlings, Black-backed Puffback, Long-billed Crombec, Chestnut-vented tit-Babbler, Red-billed Woodhoope, Red-billed and Jameson's Firefinch with Blue Waxbill and Southern Grey-headed Sparrows, and both Cardinal and Golden-tailed Woodpeckers.

Our afternoon game drive was full of anticipation and didn't disappoint, after a long drive seeing more of the same animals with the addition of Tsesebe, we came across a pride of Lion next to the road at least 4 adults and 3 cubs, they had probably just fed and were slowly moving down towards the River, crossing the road next to the vehicle and sitting in the middle of the road to warm on the hot dusty track - An incredible sight. A Lappet-faced Vulture was with the many White-backs looking for the Lions' leftovers and 3 Kori Bustards were seen as we drove away. Then as we headed towards the park gate a small owl flew alongside the vehicle, I stopped the truck and we found the Owl in a bush - an African Barred Owlet - another Lifer for me. We also saw 3 Sable cross the road on the way back to the Lodge, so a great day to finish off proceeding s at Chobe.

African Grey Hornbill

Ele's in a wallow

African Barred Owlet

Tuesday 21st July - Journey to Mogotlho Camp

This morning we were picked up by our new driver 'Captain' who we would have for the next 3 days. We said goodbye to the Bush lodge and started the long drive to our next camp at Mogotlho, which was the other side of the Savuti plains and fairly close to the Kwai river .

The drive was mostly through bush so was like a 10 hour game drive with a few comfort stops and for any wildlife we encountered. Before we entered the Savuti area we passed a flood full of Pink-backed Pelicans, then saw our first Zebra on the plains and a couple of Ostrich.

The drive was long, dusty and hot , but plenty to look at. Seeing many Giraffe, the occasional Elephant, a small Wildebeast herd and another pride of Lions next to the road with 2 females, 3 small cubs and 2 long-maned males. More birds were also seen with a Saddle-billed Stork, two species of sandgrouse, Burchell's Sangrouse and Double-banded Sandgrouse, Burchells Starling and Yellow billed Hornbills with several Bataleur Eagles on route.

Our tented camp was great with the tents very comfortable , although a fair distance from the dining area and given the camp was not fenced meant that we had to be accompanied after dark . A Honey Badger was foraging next to the dining area as we went for dinner, which was a first for all of us.

Pink-backed Pelicans

Ostrich !

Saddle-billed Stork

Little Lions

A worn out parent - know the feeling !

Young and menacing ?

Giraffe

Double-banded Sandgrouse

Competition for Tesco

Our tent - at night surrounded by Elephants

Wednesday 22nd July - Mogotlho and Kwai

The night-time activity around the tents certainly reduced sleeping hours ! - A large (presumably Bull) elephant was brushing up against our tent whilst eating the 'elephant chocolates' from the tree that canopied the tent - his dark shadow was blocking out all light as he breathed, farted, and munched within touching distance - all a little unnerving ! - Many other sounds were heard including Hippo and both African Scops Owl and Pearl Spotted Owlet.

We were up early for a game drive with Captain and not long into the drive we approached other vehicles on the road who had seen a Leopard. After 20 minutes of manouvering 2 Leopards crossed the road in front of us and headed a short distance into the bush. We parked up and had a view for at least half an hour of 3 Leopards. They had killed an African Wild Cat, and the dominant adult appeared to be keeping the meal for itself. This was an amazing experience seeing these exceptional cats so close. We drove back to the camp alongside the Kwai river, which was also productive for birds with Slaty Egret, Lesser Jacana, Hammerkop , Hadada Ibis, Gabar Goswhawk, Wattled Crane and Meyers Parrot being new to the growing list.

I went on an afternoon game drive with Captain as the girls decided to rest in camp, although little was added to the mammal list I did see Bearded Woodpecker, Southern Pied Babbler, White-crowned Shrike and plenty of Swainsons and Red-billed Francolins as well as Meve's Starling and Three Streaked Tchagra and more Double-banded Sandgrouse and Coppery-tailed Coucals. Back at camp the Pearl-spotted Owlet put in an appearance outside the tent..

We went on a night drive for an hour after dinner and saw a Cerval, Honey Badger and a Verraux's Eagle Owl..

Male Giraffe

Bush buck

2 out of the 3 Leopards captured in these pictures, the snarly one was hogging the food.

Stripey Donkey

Wattled Crane

Pearl-spotted Owlet

Southern Black Tit

Arrow-marked Babblers

Three-streaked Tchagra

Crested Francolin

Lesser Jacana

Coppery-tailed Coucal

Verraux's Eagle Owl

Thursday 24th July - Mogotlho and Moremi Game Reserve

The outing today was a fairly full day drive to the Moremi Game Reserve, so again we set off early from camp. A few Giraffe and Zebra were seen and then a Black-backed Jackal but our luck was really in when an African Wild Dog went across the road in front of us . A fairly rare sighting , they usually hunt in packs , but this dog was on his own, Captain took our vehicle off road to see if we could find other dogs but no luck, we did come across another Honey Badger.

A pair of African Hawk Eagles gave a good view and then by luck we came across another Leopard, firstly resting on a fallen tree then went off hunting into the bush.. We arrived at the park entrance to Moremi after a couple of hours and went on another drive through the park with the highlights being another 6 Lions and a big herd of Elephants, with a few more bird species including Hartlaubs Babbler, Rufous-bellied Heron, Southern Ground Hornbill, Kori Bustard, Wood Sandpiper and Senegal Coucal.

After lunch we drove back , again alongside the Kwai river and spent the remainder of the evening relaxing with another good dinner.

Black-backed Jackal

African Wild Dog

African Hawk Eagles

Leopard No.4

Stunning animals

Off hunting for breakfast

Lions at Moremi

Southern Ground Hornbill

Some more Ele's

At the entrance to the Moremi Game Reserve

Friday 24th July - Mogothlo to Livingstone

With our safari finished Captain drove us from the camp to an airstrip that was close to the Moremi reserve we were at yesterday. We waited a short while before our small charter plane arrived and an hour or so later we were back at Kasane and picked up again and transferred back out of Botswana, across the river and into Zambia meeting the same driver we had before who took us to the Livingstone Sun hotel. On arrival there we had a nice surprise to find out we'd been upgraded to the rather posh Royal Livingstone hotel next door !

We had just enough time to drop our bags there before meeting up with other wedding guests and being taken on an impromptu tour by bus of the farm that Koos and Susan run and after that to drinks and reception at the stunning River Club - with the added bonus there of Schalow's Turaco and Olive Bee-eater on show.

The farm was huge - some 15,000 Hectares and was created out of reclaimed bush, 3 crops were grown, Bananas, Ground Nuts and Wheat and it was fascinating to see this in production.

View from the plane back to Kasane

The banana crop

Ground nuts (or peanuts)

Wheat - the irrigation pivot is huge - 1km in diameter

Saturday 25th July - Monday 27th July Victoria Falls, Livingstone

Saturday was the day of the wedding, so we did a walk to the falls from the hotel this morning and then the rest of the day was devoted to the wedding festivities in this amazing location.

Vic Falls

The smoke that thuders

Would normally avoid people on a birding blog but we were here on the banks of the Zambezi in sight of the falls for the wedding - what an incredible venue

A relaxing day on Sunday, with a late afternoon devoted to barbecues a little more time to explore the grounds around the hotel and also on Monday. A few more birds were seen with lots of Red-winged Starlings and Trumpeter Hornbills, Crowned Hornbill, Terrestial Brownbuls, Yellow bellied Greenbul, Bearded Scrub Robin, African Yellow White-eye, African Golden Oriole, Ashy Flycatcher, White-fronted Bee-eater and Chinspot Batis.

Tuesday 28th July - Friday 31st July - Kayube Estate

We decamped from the Royal Livingstone to a cottage on the Kayube Estate where several other of the wedding party were staying, and the next few days were largely relaxing with the occasional trip out to see working farms, orphanages and a gentle boat trip on the Zambezi, 25 people eat out one night at a really weird German roadhouse otherwise we had a braii each night.

Plenty of birds were around the cottages with the best being an African Finfoot which regularly patrolled the river bank in front of the accommodation. Regularly seen were Marico , White-bellied and Variable Sunbirds a flock of small finches containing Common Waxbill, Blue Waxbill, Bronze Mannakin, Jamesons Finch and Green winged Pytilla. The trees were full of birds with Black-Collared Barbet, Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird, Black-headed Oriole, Retz's Helmetshrike, Common Scimitarbill, Orange-breasted Bushshrike, Lesser Honeyguide, Golden-breasted Bunting, Striped Kingfisher and Brown-headed Kingfisher, Yellow-bellied Eremomela, Pale Flycatcher, Grey-backed Cameroptera,.

On the river trip as well as another Finfoot and the usual Egrets and Ibis, we saw Giant and Malachite Kingfishers, Harrier Hawk, Black-shouldered Kite, Lizzard Buzzard, Shikra, Swallow-tailed Bee-eater, Namaqua Dove and African Green Pigeon. as well as more Hippo and Crocodile.

So we headed back to the airport on Saturday morning and a trouble free flight home after an excellent break.