Ecuador August 2012

 

Ecuador 1st - 18th August 2012.

I'd wanted to go to South America for a long time. I had an aborted attempt in 2007 when a couple of weeks before a trip to the coastal rain forests of SE Brazil I had to cancel due to work commitments. So only 5 years later my chance at last. No particular reason to choose Ecuador other than it's famed number of birds and the dates seemed to work ! - I also contained my potential overflow of new birds by not taking the extra week to the Amazon - I couldn't get the extra time off, so maybe I'd be able to absorb the number of new birds without the ornithological equivalent of brain freeze. The thought of Hummingbirds, Antpittas, Trogons, Quetzals, and Tanagers all whetted the appetite - at least from the pictures in the book - The only problem with a fieldguide of 1,600 birds is that it weighs in at over 2kg and takes up most of the hand luggage allowance and is not particularly portable in the field for quick reference. It also numbs the visual senses spending a few months staring at pages of brown Furnariids !

Quito lies in a central valley surrounded by 4 volcanoes , Cotopaxi, Cayambe, Antisana, and Pichincha. The idea of this trip was to concentrate on either side of the central Andes ridge, often in and around the volcanoes. Both the West and East slopes having different species and on each significant change in altitude the species also changed, so we went as low as 600m 2,000ft and as high as 4300m or 14,000ft.

I chose the flight route via Madrid rather than the hassles of changing in the US and the flights were good (albeit a little bumpy - 'an area of severe turbulance' that lasted 3 hrs!). Arriving at nightfall in Quito and met at the airport by Juan Carlos, both host and bird guide, and back to his 'hosteria' in the southern edge of the City. The next day was free to acclimatise, although confined slightly behind the high walls and gates of his property it was a good way to charge up after the flight and adjust to the altitude (Quito is at 2,300m or 6,500ft). Having bumped into a few of the others in the party of 8 who had arrived at varying times the previous night, there were a few birds to start with around the garden including my first ever hummingbirds - a Sparkling Violetear, Western Emerald, Black-tailed Trainbearer and White-bellied Woodstar. Along with a, Rusty Flowerpiercer and  Saffron Finch  being only ones of the trip and Southern Yellow Grossbeak, Vermillion Flycatcher and a few others , 17 species wandering around the garden and in between being fed 3 meals - it was off to a satisfying start. The remainder of the party arrived that night and we were up before 5am to head out to the Mindo area on the West slopes.

My room - big window on left - home for each return to Quito.

First ever hummingbird - a Sparkling Violetear

Southern Yellow Grosbeak

 

2nd - 6th August - Mindo area.

A couple of hours after leaving our base in our small bus for the next 2 weeks with driver, Winston who was also a sharp birder but spoke no English,  we arrived at our first destination on the slopes of the Pichincha volcano on the Western Andes slopes, with some dramatic Andean scenery developing as dawn broke on the drive up and out of Quito. The Yanacotcha Reserve was at about 11,300ft and on arrival we set off up a trail which soon started to produce birds and then quickly flocks of birds . We were inundated with new birds - Spectacled Whitestarts, Masked Flowerpiercers, Blue-backed Conebill, Shining Sunbeam, Scarlet -breasted Mountain-Tanager, Rufous-naped brush-finch, Barred Fruiteater, Black-breasted Mountain-Tanager, Red-Crested Cotinga - all within the first few hundred yards . We headed up towards a feeding station where we delighted in a Rufous Antpitta before heading out to try and find the local rarity a Black-breasted Puffleg - We staked out a set of bushes which were a known location but to no avail - we wondered back to the feeders and were rewarded with views of Sword-billed Hummingbird, Sapphire-vented Puffleg, Golden-breasted Puffleg, Tyrian Metaltail, Purple Headed Thornbill , and then just before we were about to leave Juan Carlos found a Black breasted Puffleg on a feeder. We headed back to the bus and a picnic lunch buoyed by the morning with an obliging pair of Tawny Antpittas before we departed. Photographing Hummingbirds is .. challenging ... they're fast ... I have several hundred deleted pictures of either blank spaces where they were shortly before or a blurred tail so I'm pleased with the few passable ones I have.

A view from Pichincha

Rufous Antpitta

Buff-winged Starfrontlet

Sapphire-vented Puffleg

Sapphire-vented Puffleg - suspended animation

Sword-billed Hummingbird - Imagine if your nose was longer than your body !

Tawny Antpitta

A view of Pichincha's lower slopes.

What felt like a full day by lunchtime continued into the afternoon as we headed down the old Nono-Mindo Road, stopping on occasion where we picked up a Plate-billed Mountain Toucan and Beautiful Jay, then a bird frenzy at the Bellavista Lodge before the rain set in with more hummingbirds - Fawn-breasted Brilliant, Buff-tailed Coronet, Green Violetear, Gorgeted Sunangel, Collared Inca, Purple throated Woodstar along with a White-tailed Tyrannulet and Flame-faced Tanager. We staked outt and eventually got good views of  a shy Oceallated Tapaculo and were lucky with a White-throated Quail Dove, before dusk descended and we headed to our to our base for the next 4 nights at Septimo Paraiso. A very welcoming place with great accommodation and good food..

Great Kiskadee

Flame faced Tanager

Turquoise Jay

3rd August

We headed out early the next morning towards the Rio-Silanche reserve, at a lower altitude around 1600ft. Our first roadside stop, had us chasing through the undergrowth after very vocal Brown Wood Rails, a large pond and the elusive rails thwarted views so we turned our attention to 2 other skulking birds of the undergrowth and were successful with 3 Rufous Wood Quails and then a very close Black-throated Ant-Thrush.

We soon arrived at the Rio-Silanche reserve and had an incredibly bird-rich morning, followed by a picnic lunch then an incredibly bird-rich afternoon. We were helped by a small area of fruiting trees that supported a vast number of birds in a loose flock.

Our first morning stop was in a canopy tower which did what it said and overlooked the canopy with Turkey and Black Vultures, White-collared and Grey-rumped Swifts above us and the waves of birds below through the trees included, Choco Tyrannulet, lesser Greenlet, Ochre-bellied FlycatcherBand-backed Wren, Red Headed-Barbet, Grey-throated Gnatcatcher, Choc Tyrannulet, Ochre-bellied Flycatcher, White-shouldered Tanager, Black-striped Woodpecker, Green Honeycreeper, Plain Xenops, cinnamon Woodpecker, White-flanked Antwren, Chequered-throated Antwren. By 10am the day had heated up and the canopy activity slowed so we hit the trails.

We saw Band-backed Wren and aer White-throated Spadebill before the fruiting tree area took most of our attention and Orange-bellied Euphonia, Scarlet-rumped Cassique,Pacific Antwren, Griscombs Antwren, Guera Tanager White-rumped Fairy, Snowy-throated Kingbird, Guyaquil Woodpecker, Linneateed Woodpecker, Golden Olive Woodpecker Common Tody, Bannanaquit. I could carry on just listing birds that we saw, but the overwhelming factor was the sheer volume and number of species in such a small area.

We did a similar trail circuit after lunch and saw more different species including, White-whisked Puffbird, Choco Toucan, Bi-coloured Antbird, Broad billed Motmot, Barred Woodpecker, Tawny-faced Gnatwren.  This reserve which was obviously an isolated preserve of pristine forest had been exceptional and we took our leave feeling well rewarded.

A further roadside stop on picked up more species with Rufous-winged Tanager, Tawny Crested tanager, Scarlet-thighed Dacnis, Purple crowned Fairy and Dusky Pigeon with a final tea stop at a cafe in town with a huge vista over a river canyon but with some feeders and fruit for tanagers. Golden Tanagers were a new species along with a distantly scoped Neotropical Cormorant. We  returned to base late afternoon after another fantastic day.

White-shouldered Tanager

Purple-chested Hummingbird

Guyaquil Woodpecker

Broad-billed Motmot

Northern-barred Woodcreeper

4 August

This morning we journeyed out towards the Mashpie Road area in search of a number of key species leaving particularly early to ensure we arrived shortly after daybreak and we had a roadside breakfast with our first birds of the morning a Violet-tailed sylph , Black-chinned Mountain Tanager and a Narino Tapaculo.

We continued along this road stopping when reaching suitable habitat. The weather was a bit dreary - dull and misty - so photos were limited but we had good views of several birds.  Perched Rose-faced Parrots, Golden-headed Quetzal, Velvet Purple Coronet, Scaled Fruiteater, Toucan Barbet, Moss-backed Tanager, Black Solitaire, Glistening-green Tanager, Collared Trogon, Ochre-breasted Tanager .

We stopped at a particular site to see Club-winged Manakins,  It wasn't long before we found a displaying male bird with the bizarre call being made by raising his wings aloft and pulling a stiff feather across other feathers a bit like a violin . Other birds at this site included Rufous-throated Tanager, Choco Trogon and an Orange-fronted Barbet.



not a great pic but this is a Club-winged Mannakin doing its thing

Further along the road we saw groups of Swallow-tailed Kites, Bat Falcon, Barred Hawk, Rufous Piha,  and finally a bird we didn't think we see , a pair of male Black tipped Cotinga's chasing each other along a valley, there was a certain amount of elation we'd picked these birds up.

Back at the Septimo Pairaiso we went out for Owls again after dinner (having been unsuccessful the previous night), this time we lured a Columbian Screech Owl to within a few feet.

Purple-crowned Fairy

Orange-breasted Fruiteater

Columbian Screech Owl

5th

Today's itinerary had us concentrating in the Tandayapa Valley area. Listed in the book of the 100 best birding sites in the World - so high expectations. Certainly the scenery was stunning.

Our first stop produced Hooded Mountain Tanager, Spillmans Tapaculo and then our target bird a
Tanager Finch, which was quite vocal but largely remained in the undergrowth. A pair of Slaty-backed Nightghtingale Thrush gave themselves up to view after a bit of coaxing then a pair of Green and Black Fruiteaters.

The road wound up the valley and we wandered along encountering further bird flocks a Blue-winged Mountain Tanager , Plushcap, Grass-green Tanager, Masked Trogon, Strong-billed Woodcreeper and a very visible Common Potoo (normally they choose a stump the same with as their body to roost - this one miscalculated). Chestnut-fronted Swift and White-tipped Swift in fairly large groups were overhead.

After trying unsuccessfully trying a site for a Black and Chestnut Eagle we turned to our lodge for lunch and spent some time looking at the hummingbird feeders with more new hummers, Purple-bibbed Whitetip, Green-crowned Woodnymph, Purple-throated Woodstar and Green-crowned Brilliant.

We tried a forest trail for a rare White-faced Nunbird, it was calling for a decent length of time then a flash pass of a bird may well have been the Nunbird, but frustratingly we couldn't locate it. After lunch we went to the edge of Mindo in some scrub amongst the houses - the first 'trash' habitat we had visited so far but still very productive with ,Seedeaters, Fawn-breasted and Blue-necked Tanagers, Rufous and Slaty Spinetail, Southern Beardless Tyrannulet, Olivaceous Piculet.

Towards dusk we drove down to the Nambill river  and overlooked the River from a bridge, there was a Masked Water Tyrant and Black Pheobe, as dusk arrived we went a short distance up the road and quickly found some superb Lyre-tailed Nightjars which gave a close fly-past showing their incredible tails.

Despite the long day we weren't finished on the way back to the lodge we tried for Black and White Owl but with no luck we decided to try again after dinner and this time after some patience and determination from Juan Carlos and Winston we were successful with at least 2 birds hawking moths near a light.

Speckled Hummingbird

A rather dark picture of a Tanager Finch - it was dark and finchy.

Tandayapa Valley.

Masked Trogon

Common Potoo

The clouds spent much of their time below us

Black and White Owl

Many-spotted hummingbird

Booted Rackettail

Violet-tailed Sylph

Purple-bibbed Whitetip

Septimo Paraiso Lodge

..even with swimming pool that we only realised existed the day we left !

Blue-necked Tanager

Fawn-breasted Tanager

Olivaceous Piculet

Mon 6th

This morning we had to arrive at our destined site before light up to get to  the now famed Angel Paz 'reserve'. Angel is a local farmer who with his family farm a considerable hectarage but have preserved an area of forest for wildlife and is famed for a number of otherwise difficult to see Antpittas.

We duly arrived on site and headed down a trail just before light up, flushing a Sickle-winged Guan on route. We arrived at the Lekking site of a group of Andean-Cock-of the-Rocks, a type of Cotinga about the size of a pigeon, the males are a bright scarlet with an odd-Star-Wars like helmet of the same colour. It was unfortunate that it was really not suitable light for a photo and there was no flash photography, but up to 10 birds were seen, the Lek dispersing as the morning light increases. So before 7am we were led back up the trail by Angel until a Giant Antpitta was induced out of the undergrowth by a bucket of worms. We had good and close views of at least 3 different Giant Antpittas, before we were again led to another patch where 2 Ochre-breasted Antpittas were seen. Angel has his own way of doing things and considers the morning Pitta show as his stage. He and his brother have given names to the individual Antpittas, and it possibly takes a little bit away from the famed mystique of these birds when he is sauntering up the track scattering worms shouting 'Maria' and the bird pops out behind him.  A fruit feeding area enticed , Toucan Barbets, an Olivaceous Piha and 3 Dark backed Wood Quails, and on our route out we saw another Ochre-breasted Antpitta and a Powerful Woodpecker.

We filled up on our second breakfast of the morning then returned to our lodge for a walk around the trails before lunch . We came frustratingly close to a calling Barred Forest-Falcon that would just not give itself to view, but we did see a Long-tailed Antbird then a rather elusive Blue Seedeater.

We packed the bus and departed Septimo - A great first stop - and headed back towards Quito for an overnight, crossing the Equator more than once  - stopping at a rather barren valley where we eventually found a White-tailed Shrike Tyrant.

Giant Antpitta

Giant Antpitta

Giant Antpitta

Olivaceous Piha

Toucan Barbet

Dark-backed Wood Quail

Ochre-breasted Antpitta.

Tue 7th

Today we were heading to the Eastern slopes - to get there we had to go up and over the Andes through the Papallacta Pass.

It all seemed a very clear bright day as we were again up and away out of Quito with the vegetation soon disappearing , we turned off the main road onto a track and only when we were out of the bus did we realise how cold it was - Ice was on the track and around the mountain streams. What birdlife was going to live up here !?. Our answer was very quick in coming - A Giant Conebill was soon found then a Pale-naped Brush Finch a White-cheeked Thornbill a Crowned-Chat Tyrant, then an Andean Tit-spinetail and a Blue-mantled Thornbill and a defensive Bar-winged Cinclodes,  and then the Ecuadorian Hillstar another target bird  - a hummingbird which allows it's body to shut down overnight to survive the temperatures.

We moved on and further up until we reached the highest point of the Pass at 14,300ft. A short walk out and again up with the altitude certainly having an effect on speed ! and we found a pair of Rufous bellied Seedsnipe. Turning to descend  we found we were looking down on a distant Andean Condor and against the back-drop of the hills - a magnificent site.

Our route from this point was definitely down, eventually stopping at several points along  the Guacomayas ridge where as well as lunch we picked up a White-rumped Hawk, Inca Jays, Bronzy Ica, Greenish Puffleg. further down we found 2 roosting Blackish Nightjars in the sunlight , some rather attractive Rock Flycatchers and eventually tracked down a calling Strialated Puffbird, which cooperated for scope views albeit a little distant. At a final river stop we found a Green-fronted Lancebill then Fasciated Tiger-Heron, and onward to a warm welcome at Wild Sumaco, arriving after dark but with a great home-cooked dinner and a cold beer !.

View towards Cotopaxi Volcano.

Volcano view

Scenic Valley

Ecuadorian Hillstar

Yes - Real Icicles - It was Freezing !

Bar-winged Cinclodes

Blue-mantled Thornbill

More scenic

Rufous-bellied Seedsnipe

The dot in the middle of the valley was an adult Andean Condor !

Blackish Nightjar

8 August

The previous night we'd had a quick look for Owls but unsuccessfully although we did hear a Band- bellied Owl. So we were up early for our first day at Wild Sumaco and out on the trails in the dark looking for Owls and manged to lure into view a Rufescent Screech Owl.

Back for an early breakfast then before we set off on the trails around the lodge the terrace from the main dining area had great views over the forest and some hummingbird feeders. where Wire-crested Thorntail, Brown Violetears , Golden-tailed Sapphire, Goulds Jewelfront all presented themselves. Then a group of Chestnut-fronted Macaws flew past and 2 Black-mandibilled Toucans came into view. An Olivaceous Greenlet, Greyish Saltator, Black-billled Thrush  and Black-billed Treehunter we seen before we reached the car park. We had to split into 2 groups as 4 of us went with a local guide to try and find a very elusive Plain-backed Antpitta, after a short walk and a longish wait we had a bird come into a clearing. We rejoined the rest of the Group and headed off to one of the trails near the lodge , Yellow-tufted Woodpecker, Magpie Tanager and Plumbeous Pigeon were seen on the way. Soon into the trail we were trying to track down calling Wood Quails, but they were stubborn and refused to appear, but in the same spot a White-crowned Tapaculo took great interest in Juan Carlos's Ipod just about jumping on it when it was on the ground. We also saw a White-Crowned Mannakin, White-backed Fireeye, Buff-throated Tody-tyrant and Rufous-winged Antwren,, but generally the forest was quiet and we encountered no flocks by the time we returned for lunch at the lodge.

After a quick look at the feeders in heat of the day, a Napo Sabrewing and a diminutive male Gorgeted Woodstar frequenting the Verbena bush were new. We headed to a different trail in the afternoon. It again turned out again to be pretty quiet, but we had a flyover White Hawk and then a White-tipped Sicklebill, before we spent some time by another group of feeders in the forest seeing more hummers, Ecuadorian Piedtail, Black-throated Mango, and Rufous-tailed Whitetip.

We moved out of the trails and back down the road near where much more bird activity was seen near a fruiting tree. A Coppery-chested Jacamar gave great views and the fruiting tree held Green Toucanets plus a large Tanager flock including Spotted Tanager, Bright-green Chlorophonia and a Fiery-throated Fruiteater,

The day wasn't done and we waited a while before a long search for a Foothill Screech Owl . The bird was calling quite close but it took a long while before we located it in the torchlight. We heard both Band-bellied Owl and Mottled Owl without any success.



Rufescent-screech Owl

View from Terrace at Wild Sumaco

Wire-crested Thorntail

Black-mandibillled Toucan

Spotted Thrush-Wren

Plain-backed AntPitta

Golden-Tailed Sapphire

Many-spotted Hummingbird

Smooth-billed Ani

Black-streaked Puffbird

Roadside Hawk

A big wasp/bee nest

Coppery-chested Jacamar

 



9th August

Another day on the Wild Sumaco Trails. The group of trees near the bus always seemed to hold good birds and this morning a Lafresnayes Piculet , Lined Antshrike and Dusky Spinetail were seen before  we departed for the second group to try for the Plain-backed Antpitta seen in Group 1 yesterday. We returned later in the morning to the Piha Trail where a White-winged Becard followed by a  Black-streaked Puffbird gave good close views, followed by a brief view of a Chestnut-crowned Gnateater and then a loud Grey-tailed Piha, I managed to miss a Yellow-throated Spadebill courtesy of a badly positioned tree. After another great lunch at the lodge and further looks at the feeders and another fairly quiet forest walk , we ended up at the fruiting tree area we'd been at the previous day with a Foothill Eleania, Orange-breasted Fruiteater and Blue-fronted Lancebill on route. Additionally 'the tree' held Golden-eared Tanager, Channel billed Toucan and nearby a Plain Antvireo. After dark we heard Tropical Screech Owl and Band-bellied Owl again but had no luck locating them.

10th August

A final attempt in the dark this morning for Owls, and success !! as a very attractive  Band-bellied Owl silently swooped in above us and showed well in the spotlight before retreating again. After breakfast we loaded the bus and said goodbye to Sumaco which was another fantastic and comfortable lodge with good food.
We returned to the FACE trail (something to do with a church group)  for the morning which had been so quiet on the first morning at Sumaco. A Yellow Cheeked Becard showed before we entered the trail, then we saw a Striped Mannakin, Many-banded Aracari followed by a Crimson Crested Woodpecker, after a good start it was again very quiet, and other than a Rufous-tailed Foliage Gleaner and a Blue-rumped Mannakin we left the Sumaco area and headed off to a lower altitude towards Gareno lodge.

We had a White-banded Swallow at a Petrol garage, then stopped for a quick roadside packed lunch at a grassy-swampy area - it was very hot! - but although no crakes appeared, we did see a White-browed Purpletuft, Pyratic Flycatcher, Cobalt-winged Parakeets and Spot-breasted Woodpecker. Further stops along this much hotter, dyer landscape, showed a White-eared Jacamar, Masked Tanager, White-lored Euphonia, Opal-crowned Tanager, Yellow-bellied Dacnis, then the bird we were trying to find a Spotted Palmcreeper, which gave exceptionally good views.

We arrived at the roadside entrance to Gareno Lodge very late afternoon, and before we went into the lodge were lead through the bush and up and down a couple of hills where there was a roosting Rufous Potoo - despite the change to hot and sweaty climate a fantastic bird in the fading light .

There is always one place slightly unexpected on a trip and this was it.

From the road we had to descend a long and very steep climb (with steps), then cross a river where the bridge was definitely only one at a time (suspended planks), and onto the lodge area. The Lodge is in the lands of the local Huaorani Indians, most of the old tribal lands and forest seem to be in the hands of the State Oil companies, no doubt in exchange for beer money as the world over alcohol plays a major role in the lives of the locals. It appeared that the general deal with the lodge run by a local is that the forest would be left intact if a $25 per night per tourist is donated to the Indians. There had been a lack of visitors the week or so before we arrived which meant the donations had been a little light, which was expressed by the ceremonial burning down of one of the cabins the night before we arrived. No problem, we just had to double up and as there was nothing in the cabins other than 2 wooden beds, we weren't planning to spend any time in the rooms. The food was also ok and they managed a cold beer so it all seemed fine.

Rufous-tailed Foliage Gleaner

Spotted Palmcreeper

Rufous Potoo

Rickety Bridge - route to the lodge

This cabin was now a little draughty.

 

11th August

 

We were up early to look for Owls, the local Spectacled Owl wasn't playing but a Tawny-bellied Screech Owl was and showed well.

 

A particular bird we had been told was seen around the cabins was a Fiery Topaz, one of the more spectacular and uncommon hummingbirds. So after breakfast we waited around the cabins as the light increased, seeing a Short-billed Antwren, Grey Chinned Hermit, Warbling Antbrd, Pink throated Becard, Yellow-throated Barbet, Blue-backed Mannakin, Ivory-billed Aracari, White-tailed Trogon. Eventually the Fiery Topaz was seen flycatching, then perched, then gone.

 

So we headed out for a day on the trails. A Buff-winged Sicklebill shot past, then a fruiting tree had a number of birds including Yellow-bellied Tanager, Golden-winged Tody Flycatcher, Green and Gold Tanager, Yellow-backed Tanager, Fulvous-crested Tanager and Golden Headed Mannakin. Both Short-winged and White-chested Swifts were above the canopy, and we felt sure we would locate a calling Yellow-billed Jacamar, but it eluded us.

 

It took a long while before we encountered a small flock, which was limited to a White-fronted Nunbird, Golden collard-Toucanet and a Screaming Piha, which sounded like a Whipbird. We found an ant swarm which had nearby a  Fulvous Shrike Tanager , a Southern-nightingale Wren was coaxed out then a Sooty Antbird. Our lunch was supposed to be transported to us but took a couple of extra hours to find us. We spent the rest of the afternoon on open trails then back on the roadside. A mirador point was the most productive with a Black-faced Dacnis, Dark-chested Flycatcher, then a great find in a Purple-throated Cotinga and a Spangled Cotinga. A family party of Brown Jacamars and a Purple Honeyeater finished the daylight viewing. Before we went back to the lodge we waited for dark then went to look again for Owls and had good views of a Spectacled Owl.

 

Rather surprised when we returned to the cabin to find a guest above the beds in the form of a Tarantula and next to it a nest with a dead female. There's no electricity in the cabin so it was only picked up in torchlight, but the realisation that the previous nights sleep had involved being closely watched was a little spooky !

After some hilarious tripod manoeuvres we chased the large male onto the ceiling where it dropped off onto the telescope end of the tripod and was carried a decent distance away !.

 

Golden headed Mannakin

If there's something furry on your pillow.....

 

 

 12 August

 

Apart from a giant flying Cockroachy thing - the night passed without any more insect or arachnid interferences, but we were leaving this morning !!

 

We again waited around and eventually had better  views of the Fiery Topaz, along with both Chestnut and Scaly-breasted Woodpeckers, we had time for another wander round the trails before having to leave Gareno at lunchtime. A White thighed Swallow, Scale-backed and Yellow-browed Antbirds, Mouse-grey Antshrike, Oscellated Woodcreeper, Black-bellied Cuckoo, Red-stained Woodpecker and Black-tailed Trogon was an ok haul, then on the way out we briefly stopped at the Mirador viewpoint and managed to see a Yellow-billed Nunbird which although not uncommon in the area had surprisingly eluded us before now.

 

We then had a couple of roadside stops up towards the Guacomayas Ridge which produced a Black-tailed Tityra, Blue-browed Tanager, Rufous bellied Tanager, Azara's Spinetail and both Saffron Crowned and the incredibly attractive Vermillion Tanager.

 

We waited until near dusk and went on a (rather slippery) path at the top of the ridge, where a calling  Thrush-Like Antpitta had us convinced it would appear any moment, but it flew straight at us and away, so no acceptable view, then in the same bit of path we had a calling Greater Scythebill, an incredibly rare bird, but as dusk fell it failed to show. Then in the dark and the rain we walked down the road looking for Nighthawks that also failed to show - So onto our lodge at San Isidiro - the lodge was fantastic and the food quite surprisingly exceptional - the only other party there included Robert Ridgely - the author of my 3kg Field Guide -  I was tempted to ask him to carry it for me.

 

 

 

One for the bug-watchers

The Gareno accommodation - appealing ?

 

13th San Isdiro in the wet

 

The overnight rain didn't relent, so the theme today was wet birds. There was a small shelter outside the dining room and the few trees around held quite a few birds - A Pale-edged Flycatcher and large numbers of Sub-Tropical Cassiques and  Yellow-rumped Orependalas, Brown-capped Vireo, a stunning (but drenched) Crimson-mantled Woodpecker, Common Bush Tanagers, Bluish Flowerpiercer and Streak-throated Flycatcher. Even Robert Ridgely was getting soaked - no distinction for birding legends here !   We were then whisked off to a site for another Antpitta, this time a White-bellied Antpitta, which despite the weather was still keen on its worms. so eventually bounded into view and next stop a calling Chestnut -crowned Antpitta had us thinking it wouldn't show but eventually gave a great but brief view - and was certainly a smart bird.

 

We then had while under another shelter (the rain was unrelenting) looking at the hummingbird feeders which were pretty active with a Chestnut-breasted Coronet and Long-tailed Sylph. Then we were into the bus for a trip down the road. I was last on the bus. Not long before we'd seen a pair of Masked Trogons in the nearby trees, and as I was about to board the bus I saw a bird (Trogon size) just where they'd been and after a quick look through the bins at the green and red Trogon sized bird I thought I'd fire off a couple of shots as I'd taken one earlier but with the wet thought I'd try a for a better one but I was being pressed to get on the bus and it was raining.

 

Now just to explain, that over the last week we'd tried in several places to see a Crested Quetzal, which was on several peoples got-to-see list.

 

The bus was waiting to go and as last person standing out in the rain  I was hurried onto the bus.

Only later when reviewing my new 'Trogon' pics did the thought of 'major schoolboy error' enter my head and 'how did those pictures of a Crested Quetzal  get onto my camera ?'. luckily through their vented fury the Group saw the funny side (we didn't see another one on the trip!), but demanded I reviewed the entire contents of my camera in search of all the missing species I must have magically taken a picture of.

 

Despite the rain we continued to notch up new species with White-crested Elaenia, Mountain Wren, Azura's Spinetail, Southern Lapwing, Then a river stop produced a pair of Torrent Duck. A roadside stop had us crawling into the undergrowth and getting incredibly close views of a Barred Antthrush.

 

The rain continued rather heavily in the afternoon, which was therefore a bit of a wash-out, but we had another excellent evening meal !

 

We did have an Owling attempt, and although blanked on seeing a calling San Isidro Owl and Rufous-banded Owl, we did see an Andean Potoo in the torchlight.

 

Rufous-collared Sparrow

A wet Crimson-backed Woodpecker.

 

White-bellied Antpitta

Masked Trogon

 



Crested Quetzal  !!!

Chestnut -breasted Coronet

Collared Inca

Long-tailed Sylph

Cinnamon Flycatcher

Part of the lodge rooms at San Isidro

14th August

 

Our route today was back to Quito, and we were away early after breakfast, stopping in a small valley.  The first bird was a Rufous-vented Tapaculo, but really only gave movement and brief 'shape-of-bird' views, but better was a Black-Chested Fruiteater, which completed all the available Fruiteater family for the trip. We then headed up into the mountains and the Guyambe Coqa National Park.

 

We continued up until again we were near 4000m and saw several new species. Golden-capped Tanager, Tyrian Metaltail, Tufted Tit-Tyrant, Rainbow-fronted Thorntail, Black-chested Mountain-Tanager, Cinereous Conebill and then on our descent both Andean Teal and Andean Gull.

 

Our lunch stop at Guango Lodge was again full of hummingbird feeders harbouring new birds in Purple-throated Sunangel, Glowing Puffleg. We then set off on a trail after lunch via a river and up a hillside Northern Mountain Cassique, then a Lacrimose Mountain Tanager a Rufous-breasted Chat Tyrant were seen before we bumped into a large bird flock and quickly started adding birds, a Bar-bellied Woodpecker, Grey-headed Bush tanager, Blue-backed and Capped Conebills, Black-eared Hemispingus...... We then had a final roadside stop which was made optional due to the muddy conditions and wandered into a trail notching up a Plain-backed Wren, Slaty Brush finch, White-crowned Brush Finch and Grey-breasted Mountain Toucan.

 

We then journeyed back to Quito again for an overnight stop.



 

 

Black-chested Mountain Tanager

 Black-capped Tyrannulet

Bar-bellied woodpecker

15th August

Up and away again in the dark. The first stop at a mountain side cafe, as well as great views over the volcanic lava flows, produced a Giant Hummingbird, Andean Condor, Black-billed Shrike-tyrant and Black-Chested Buzzard-Eagle. As well as looking down on a lake which held Andean Coot, Yellow-billed Pintail and a couple of Spotted Sandpipers.

We then headed up towards Antisana Volcano and a plateau again at 4000m. A hillside stop had Andean Lapwings, Paramo Pipit and Stout-billed Cinclodes, with a nesting Equadorian Hillstar in the shepherds hut. Further up we managed to see both Streak-backed and Many-striped Canastero, Black-winged Ground Dove and on the approach to the Antisana Volcano with the large numbers of Carunculated Caracara's and 4 Andean Ibis and a small flock of Baird's Sandpipers.

It was cold, windy and wet at the large lake at the top of the pass and it didn't produce the Silvery-eared Grebes that are supposed to be present and we only added Andean Ruddy Duck.
We went back to the Cafe for lunch getting better views of the Andean Condors, then started our long journey to Tinalandia. A riverside stop added White-capped Dipper. We arrived at the lodge just before dark, to find that the only way to get to the rooms was in the lodge bus up a very steep hill. This Chrysler minibus, loaned to all residents,  must have been 40 years old and with the exhaust falling off (as well as the paintwork, doors, and other parts) sounded like it had a V10 engine. So all 9 of us plus bags piled in and Winston tried to drive the thing - it was hilarious but we eventually got deposited at our rooms, then went to look for Owls and saw a close Choco Screech Owl and a Pauraque (Common Paraque) but didn't entice a calling Crested Owl into view.

Giant Hummingbird

Andean Lapwing

Stout-billed Cinclodes

Equadorian Hillstar nest

Carunculated Caracara (what a name !)

Andean Ibis

Antisana Volcano

16th August

From Tinlandia we drove to the lowest part of the trip at around 600m to the Rio Palanque Research station , which harboured an area of Rain Forest protected from the surrounding development.

We had breakfast on arrival and then spent the morning wandering the rainforest trails back for lunch then the same in the afternoon. We ended the afternoon getting the bus stuck down a trail, which took several attempts after deflating the tyres and some manic bouncing in the bus as Winston flew at the slippery slope at full revs before eventually to loud cheers we made it out.

Over the course of the day, even with the quiet forest spells we added a good number of new birds to our list. A Rufous Motmot and Dark -faced Tanagers were seen over breakfast just as it started to get light and Grey and Gold Warbler and Pacific Parrotlets were near the bus and the trails came up with a Red-billed Scythebill, Rufous-tailed Jacamar, Barred Puffbird, Speckle-breasted Wren, White-necked Puffbird, Little Cuckoo, Great Antshrike, Dusky Antbird, Sooty-crowned Flycatcher, Yellow-tailed Oriole, Long-billed, Gnatwren, Greenish Elaenia, Brown-capped and Yellow-crowned Tyrannulet and a Northern Violaceous Trogon. A roosting Spectaled Owl in a Bamboo thicket and three new hummers a Baron's Hermit, Stripe-throated Hermit and Violet bellied Hummingbird.
A calling Pacific Pygmy Owl frustrated us but we picked up a Pearl Kite on the journey back to Tinalandia.

Red-billed Scythebill

Squirrel Cuckoo

Pale-mandibled Aracari

17 August

 

Our final morning was spent at Tinalandia, after breakfast around the lodge feeders and then walking trails in what was generally more open terrain, but the place (which apparently used to hold a golf course, generally was a little run down. A brief view of a Scarlet-backed Woodpecker in a feeding flock whilst waiting in hope for a Pallid Dove to appear near the breakfast area.

 Then on the trails we were thwarted by calling Laughing Falcon and White-throated Crake but did see Crimson-rumped Toucanet, Russet Antshrike, Band-tailed Barbthroat, Black-crowned Tityra, Rufous-browed Peppershrike, a reclusive Orange-billed Sparrow, Ashy-throated Bush Tanager and the stunning Swallow Tanager.

We had a final journey in the rickety bus before departing back to Quito. Where the following morning , most of the Group headed of early for the weeks extension to the Amazon, and I waited until around lunchtime before starting the journey back to London.

What a great trip - some 600 birds seen  !.

Winston and the rusty bus.

Ginger Plant

Pacific Hornero

A red Dragonfly

Everyone off to the Amazon