Costa Rica - January 2025

 

Even though not a birding trip it was important to know the best areas, our trip went from Orange to Yellow to Red, with hardly any time in the central valley and highlands

Tuesday January 14th 2025 - Travel to San Jose

'This is not a Birding Holiday !!' - The phrase I heard the most in the run up to this trip, and it wasn't... but .... read on to find out which birds I didn't see.

A place I had long wanted to go, and I did have a birding trip booked to Costa Rica for March 2020 that ultimately was shelved in a combination of work pressures and Covid and that cancellation resulted in a commitment that I couldn't go to Costa Rica without Sally and the girls, although Hannah and Adie's  lives are now expanded into their own commitments that it was only going to be 2 of us travelling. We booked the ground arrangements through Wildlife Trails, who we have used several times before, the flights we booked ourselves and managed to get on the direct flights with BA from Gatwick both ways.

After leaving the dark and cold of the UK to it's Winter grip, we arrived in San Jose around 6pm local time and were met by Eduardo at the airport, who would be our driver/guide/friend for most of the trip. We drove for about an hour to Hotel Bouganvilla on the North East side of San Jose, where  had time to dump bags, have a quick burger and then out for the count around 9pm (although 3am the following day on our UK clocks).

Wednesday January 15th - to Boca Tapada

I was up early and out into the hotel garden by 5.45am. The weather was warm but already raining. Eduardo had explained to us that even though Dec- Mar is considered the 'Dry Season' they have already had the wettest December on record and January is turning out the same, the weather here, as with many other parts of the world is now fairly unpredictable. 'Like snow in July in the UK' it was described to us.

Undeterred, my non-birding holiday list was about to get started. The first bird, when it was barely light, was a Lesson's Motmot, which was a pretty good start, and the dawn chorus was initiated by Rufous-tailed Hummingbirds and Clay Coloured Thrush. Eduardo had mentioned last night that the last time he was at the hotel he saw a Mottled Owl in the Bamboo patch. The garden is a decent size but not so big that it was fairly easy to locate what must be the area he was referring to when  I soon saw some large Bamboo next to a Tennis Court and no sooner than walking to the first bit of Bamboo a movement revealed a Mottled Owl, briefly staring at me before disappearing into the thicker stuff, excellent start !! . I'd given myself an hour before needing to head back for breakfast and managed several more species, Red billed Pigeon, Social Flycatcher, Cabanis's Wren, Baltimore Oriole, Summer Tanager, Rufous-collared Sparrow, White-winged Dove, Tropical Kingbird, Great Kiskadee and a flock of noisy Finsch's Parakeets all made the list, so pretty pleased as I got back to the room and we headed down to breakfast.

The Hotel Bouganvilla garden at first light.. in the rain

Baltimore Oriole

Mottled Owl

Social Flycatcher

White-winged Doves

Summer Tanager (f)

We left the hotel with Eduardo, although the rain looked like it would continue for most of the day and it was rain with low cloud as we headed over the highland ridge, our first part of the tour was in the Caribbean slope and it would appear this part of the country was currently getting all the rain. Our first stop after a couple of hours was at El Copes, a small place owned by Cope who had set up some hummingbird feeders and it was exactly the experience we needed as the first stop of the trip. As we parked outside the entrance to the small finca, Palm Tanager, Scarlet-rumped Tanagers, Short-billed Pigeons and Olive backed Euphonia were seen. The deck which overlooked a forested pool with fruit and nectar feeders was alive with birds. Yellow-throated Toucans, Collared Aracari, Montezuma Oropendola, Chestnut-headed Oropendola were the larger birds with hummers being White-necked Jacobin, Scaly-breasted Hummingbird and a single White-tipped Sicklebill. Shining, Green and Red-legged Honeycreepers were keen on the fruit.

Cope then lead us to another area of forest, borrowing wellies as the continuous rain made the trails quite deep with mud and water, but he lead us to a roosting Crested Owl, then a roosting Spectacled Owl and we also saw a Slaty-tailed Trogon. He also showed us a group of Ghost Bats roosting under a large leaf. Despite the rain we loved this experience and left here finding a roadside diner for our first Costa Rican lunch.

The entrance to Cope's place

Scarlet-rumped Tanager

Yellow-throated Toucan

Yellow-throated Toucan

Red-legged Honeycreeper

Red-legged Honeycreeper

Clay-coloured Thrush

Montezuma Oropendola

Collared Aracari

A wet Crested Owl

A wet Spectacled Owl

A wet Slaty-tailed Trogon

Lunch stop

After lunch, we continued our journey north towards Boca Topada and continued to see wildlife with our first rather wet Three-toed Sloth, some Spider Monkeys and a couple of Great Green Macaws.

We arrived at La Laguna del Lagarto lodge late afternoon and enjoyed some views from the dining terrace over more fruit feeders and the forest in the distance, the views were stunning and the lodge was comfortable and the food offering was home-made and perfect.

Great Currasows and South American Agoutis were on the grass and Crested Guans and Brown Hooded Parrots on the fruit feeders. A Chestnut-sided Warbler in a nearby tree and Scarlet Macaws flew over.

An ideal first day in Costa Rica.

From the dining terrace

Room at La Laguna

This was our first Sloth - a wet ball.

Spider Monkey

Brown Hooded Parrot

Crested Guan

Great Currasow

Keel-billed Toucan

Chestnut-sided Warbler

Thursday January 16th - Laguna del Lagarto

I was up before breakfast and spent an hour looking out from the dining terrace seeing many of the species we had seen yesterday, but additions including Golden-hooded Tanager, Blue-chested Hummingbird, Black-cheeked Woodpecker, White-collared Manakin, Plain-coloured Tanager and Yellow-throated Euphonia. A Muscovy Duck (of the genuine wild variety) flew past one of the ponds beneath the terrace. 

After a decent breakfast we went for a walk in the forest with Eduardo and despite being very wet and quite quiet it was enjoyable. We stumbled across a Great Tinamou on the path and saw a tiny Tree Frog we waited in a area where there had been a Manakin lek, but not today and a White-throated Thrush appeared on the path, which is supposed to be a bird of the highlands but perhaps confused by the weather.

A wet view from the Terrace

Dining area doubled as a viewpoint

A wet forest walk

Scarlet Macaws

Scarlet Macaw

Black-cheeked Woodpecker

Crested Guan

Keel-billed Toucan

Brown-hooded Parrot

Great Tinamou

Frog

White-throated Thrush

The weather cleared a little late morning and already started to heat up. I walked with Eduardo a short distance to an area where there was a vulture feeding station, which house many Black Vultures but also 2 or 3 incredible looking King Vultures. It's mainly set up for photographers but it was a good place to see these birds in close proximity. One of the lagoons had a Bare-throated Tiger Heron, which caught and tried to consume a large fish but eventually decided the fish was too large for it's throat !!

We had lunch, getting used to being over-fed, then went for a long afternoon drive towards the Nicaraguan border. Largely through a mixture of farmland and scattered trees, some brief stops near some scrub produced a Slaty Spinetail and a surprise Fasciated Antshrike then a Red-lored Parrot, Black-striped Sparrow, Grey Crowned Yellowthroat and a Morelet's Seedeater.

We drove as far as a small village called San Juan, which had a river crossing to the border post where you could see Nicaragua across the river. There was a small bar in the village which Eduardo knew and we had a Nicaraguan beer before retracing our steps. A further stop in some farmland produced a large flock of Red-winged Blackbirds with a few Nicaraguan Grackles a Red-rumped Woodpecker and a Northern Jacana in some damp fields.

After another feeding session for us with a great dinner, we went on a very damp night-walk with Eduardo, seeing some more frogs and Giant Toads but a Paraque was the only nightbird we saw.

Black Vulture

King Vulture

King Vulture

King and Black Vultures

Bare-throated Tiger-Heron

Bare-throated Tiger-Heron, it eventually dropped the fish

Great Currasow (f)

Basalisk Lizard

Cinnamon Becard

Grey-crowned Yellowthroat

Black-striped Sparrow

Red-lored Parrot

Spider Monkey

Northern Jacana

Nicaragua is the other side of the river

This is the small bar in the border town

Nicaraguan beer !

Friday 17th January - Boca Topada to Bijagua

Pre-breakfast this morning I spent scanning different areas of the grounds with Eduardo. There was an outside hope that we would pick up a Snowy Cotinga as one had been reported in the last week, but we had no luck but saw a number of other species including Chestnut-coloured Woodpecker, White-crowned Parrot, Melodious Blackbird, more Great Green Macaws, Scarlet Macaws and a White-necked Puffbird.

After breakfast Eduardo and I went to try for Boat-billed Heron on a lagoon, but failed in our attempts to find access to view the lagoon, but the lagoon near the lodge did have a pair of Green Kingfisher. We packed up and then headed towards Alajuela, but we did stop on the edge of the lagoon near the entrance track and found 2 hidden Boat-billed Herons.

The journey was a straight-forward drive for 2-3 hours to Bijagua, we stopped at a coffee place on the way. Costa Rican coffee is great and it was definitely worth trying as many as we could !.

We realised that the next lodge was expecting us for lunch, so we had to make a move, not realising that once we got to Bijagua the last 10kms was on a dirt track. We arrived about 2.30pm and Eduardo left us. The lodge had astonishing views and the rooms were individual cabins with a deck and a hot tub. It was still raining but sitting in the hot tub on a deck with magnificent views was the option taken and although I didn't want to get my bins wet, there was a Yellow Warbler and Common Tody Flycatcher in nearby bushes.

We went on a night walk organised by the lodge, seeing many tree frogs but also a Eyelash Pit-Viper, a roosting Wood Thrush and a Black-and-white Owl.

Lodge entrance at La Laguna del Lagarto

Our transport

View from the lunch table at Origins Lodge

Hot tub outside room

Praying Mantis (leaf shaped)

tree frog

Great Green Macaw

Golden-hooded Tanager

Summer Tanager

Chestnut-coloured Woodpecker

Chestnut-sided Warbler

Green Kingfisher

Morelet's Seedeater

Saturday January 18th - Tapir Valley and Origins Lodge

I'd agreed with Eduardo to be picked up early at 5.30am to go to the Tapir Valley for the morning, which is not too far from Bijagua, whilst Sal stayed and enjoyed the luxury of the lodge. Our challenge was rain. It had not stopped and was heavy. 

We arrived as they opened the gates at 6.30am and walked with borrowed Wellies under umbrellas to a platform where they had some feeders, which at least was under cover and they also served some very welcome Coffee

To start with there were many birds which I had seen elsewhere. Great Currasows, Montezuma Oreopendolas, Yellow-throated Toucan, Clay-coloured Thrush, Scarlet-rumped Tanager, Blue-chested Hummingbird, Palm Tanagers and Yellow-throated Euphonias. Then a few birds started to appear which were new. A Violet-headed Hummingbird then a Purple-crowned Fairy, Stripe-throated Hermit and a Green Hermit. Excitement increased a little when a Yellow-winged Tanager turned up, then best of all a very smart Yellow-eared Toucanet, which gave great views and would normally be restricted to high canopy views, if at all.

We decided to walk the trails, if anything with the rain increasing. We picked up a couple of species, a Black-faced Grosbeak and a Rufous Motmot were seen not far along the trail. One bird I was particularly keen to see was the Snowcap, a tiny but very smart looking hummingbird, and this was probably the best place on our itinerary to find the bird. We needed to go into the forest where there was a grid of rides and an area where there were Verbena bushes, that apparently the Snowcap favoured the flowers. We sloshed along the trails with water more than half way up our wellies, eventually found an area that looked suitable and stood under our umbrellas waiting, there was very little in the area, a Summer Tanager seemed to be flycatching around the verbenas and a Gartered Trogon was in the vicinity. I had started to look at the time, thinking how long we could give it before we needed to return when suddenly in front of me was a male Snowcap around one of the Verbenas. I called Eduardo over and after a few more brief seconds it vanished. We waited longer for it to return but it never did. I was obviously pleased I'd seen it and made the effort in the wet worthwhile. We tried another route in the forest but found the trails were too underwater so eventually retreated declaring the weather was starting to win, it was becoming un-birdable.

A Buff-rumped Warbler was enjoying the rain by a stream and a Barred Antshrike and Bay Wren were seen on the way back to the car. Eduardo dropped me back at the lodge just before lunch. We had a free Yoga session, which nearly killed me, and other than a White Hawk and Northern Waterthrush, didn't focus on the birds too much in the afternoon.

the trails in Tapir Valley were wet !

Yellow-eared Toucanet

Yellow-eared Toucanet

Yellow-winged Tanager

Barred Antshrike

Wet Forest

A pretty amazing Prawn Cocktail for lunch !

Sunday 19th January - Bijagua to Hacienda La Pacifica

I went for  a brief walk this morning before breakfast down one of the trails at the lodge, which goes into forest. I didn't go far, but firstly found a Chestnut-backed Antbird, and then a Gartered Trogon, the very large Pale-billed Woodpecker and a White-tipped Dove.

We had our last breakfast at the lodge and then went on a tour of what they call the Farm. We had a go at milking a cow and were shown how they extract the juice from Sugar cane. The friendly guide then walked us, via a pond with Muscovy Ducks,  to a tree with a Three-toed Sloth, which was the best view of one so far on the trip. 

It was then time to leave this excellent lodge, there was a Mealy Amazon in a tree outside the room as we left and we loaded the vehicle with Eduardo and headed towards the Pacific Slope.

Gartered Trogon

Chestnut-backed Antbird

Muscovy Duck

Three-toed Sloth

Mealy Amazon

final view from the dining terrace

As we had some time en-route, we stopped at a place called Hanging Bridges, which was at Los Heliconas, not the more famous Hanging Bridges at Arenal. There was a forest trail and yes it did go over some hanging bridges. The forest was a little quiet, but we did find a pair of Tody Motmots failry close to the start of the trail. Also a Grey-headed Dove, Wood Thrush a Keel-billed Motmot, White-ruffed Manakin, White-breasted Wood-Wren and Golden-crowned Warbler. The hummingbird feeders at the visitor centre did attract a Ruby-throated Hummingbird.

We continued our journey and noticeably as we crossed the divide between the Caribbean and Pacific slopes the weather dried up. We continued our journey, arriving late afternoon at Hacienda La Pacifica, just off the main Pacific Highway, in very different habitat being surrounded by flat and dry fields.

I went for a brief walk in the property with Eduardo. We found Cinnamon Hummingbird, Green-breasted Mango, White-fronted Amazon and Rufous-backed Wren.

The room was ok, if a little dark, with no other facilities, the restaurant on-site was ok, but it's always a bit of a let down , having just left a place of superior luxury !

Tody Motmot

Tody Motmots

Tody Motmot

Wood Thrush

White-breasted Wood-wren

White-fronted Amazon

Monday 20th January - Palo Verde to Ensenada Lodge

As usual I was up early and went for a waalk with Eduardo, firstly around the grounds of the hotel then down the road along a track that led to more open farmland. The farm track was more productive with good views of Hoffman's Woodpecker, another Green-breasted Mango, Streak-backed Oriole and Yellow-naped Amazons. The fields in view were quite marshy and held a Bare-throated Tiger Heron, some Southern Lapwing, Black-bellied Whistling Duck and Red-winged Blackbirds. By 7am it was already hot. We returned to the hotel, went for breakfast and then packed to leave.

We drove north to the Palo Verde wetlands where we were promised boardwalks and a potential boat ride and forest trails. It felt promising as we got near to the entrance gate as there was a large saline lagoon which held a number of waders, mainly Semipalmated and Least Sandpipers, but perhaps unexpectedly I also saw a Curlew Sandpiper. The rest of the morning was slightly disappointing.

The vast marsh was completely overgrown and covered in Water Hyacinth. The only short boardwalk that went out into the marsh meant that there was very little water patches that could be seen and there was no hope of any boat trip. I managed to eek out a Northern Harrier, a distant Wood Stork, Limpkin and Black-necked Stilt, Northern Jacana, Green Heron and more Black-bellied Whistling Duck. A forest trail that went for a couple of kms was so dry and the only bird we saw was a Prothonotary Warbler. We ended the morning with a sense of disappointment and slightly wished this hadn't been on our itinerary, this was definitely not the Costa Rica we were looking for. We ended up driving back past the Hacienda Hotel, where we stayed last night, and stopped for lunch to give Eduardo a break. then headed South for a fairly long dive to Ensenada Lodge near Guanacaste. Arriving late afternoon.

The lodge seemed fairly basic but the views were good and the dining area was well set out. A Spot-breasted Oriole was the only addition to the bird list before dinner, where a Hooded Skunk briefly appeared near the dinner table and on the way back to the room I saw a very vocal Tropical Screech Owl.

Wader scrape approaching Palo Verde

the clogged up marsh at Palo Verde

Hoffman's Woodpecker

Green Heron

Black-bellied Whistling Duck

Northern Jacana

Tuesday 21st January - La Ensenada

We were up at first light and walked down to the jetty for an early morning boat trip into the mangroves. We do love wildlife trips on boats so were looking forward to this. It was warm and the vast expanse of water was still as we headed out across the bay towards the coastal mangroves in the 'Golf of Nicoya'

Very soon we had seen a couple of the highlights both Mangrove Cuckoo and Mangrove Hummingbird had shown themselves. We started seeing lots of waterbirds with flocks of Grey Plover, Hudsonian Whimbrel, Willet, Surfbird, Semi-palmated plover, Hudsonian Godwit, Short-billed Dowitchers, Turnstone and large number of Royal Terns, Sandwich (Cabot's) Terns with a couple of Caspian Terns, Brown Pelicans, Magnificent Frigatebirds, Great Blue and Little Blue Herons, Tricolored Heron and White Ibis. 

We found some well hidden Boat-billed Herons, another Prothonotary Warbler, Mangrove Warbler, Mangrove Vireo and a Panama Flycatcher. Plus our boat captain also found a roosting Lesser Nighthawk. It was all spectacular and a fantastic 2-3 hours before returning for breakfast.

The boat for our trip

As we left

Views of the bay as we headed to the mangroves

Scenery was magnificent

Mangrove Cuckoo

Willet

Short-billed Dowitchers

Little Blue Heron

Hudsonian Whimbrel

Lesser Nighthawk

Boat-billed Heron

Magnificent Frigatebirds

Panama Flycatcher

Mangrove Vireo

Later in the morning we drove a short distance to some saline pools which were filled with waders and herons. A number of Yellow-crowned Night Herons, Wood Storks and Roseate Spoonbills were new for the list, Black-necked Stilts, Least, Semi-Palmated and Western Sandpipers, Lesser Yellowlegs and an American Golden Plover were added.

The surrounding trees had Canivet's Emerald, Green-breasted Mango and Squirrel Cuckoo. We ventured into some sparse woodland towards another lagoon seeing a White-necked Puffbird and a Laughing Falcon amongst some other species.

It was getting very hot so we retreated for lunch in what had been a spectacular morning

Dining area at La Ensenada

Black-necked Stilt

White-necked Puffbird

Laughing Falcon

After a midday siesta, a final walk in the afternoon with Eduardo across some fields and copses, was fairly quiet from a wildlife point of view with just a very vocal Ferruginous Pygmy Owl and a Great Crested Flycatcher were the additions. After another good meal a very vocal Tropical Screech Owl was outside our cabin.

Ferruginous Pygmy Owl

Tropical Screech Owl

Wednesday 22nd January - La Ensenada to Villa Lapas.

A brief visit back to the Salt pans this morning held many of the same species seen yesterday with just the addition of a Solitary Sandpiper. I managed a walk around the grounds of the lodge after breakfast and found a new bird in some scrub being a Stripe-headed Sparrow.

We set off for a journey further south towards Camarone and the Tarcoles River. We stopped a couple of times firstly at a Coffee / gift shop and then at a very good seafood restaurant for lunch of Lobster and chips !!. we arrived at our next accommodation, Villa Lapas, around 3pm. We relaxed until Eduardo was taking us to Jaco for dinner. It was about a 30 minute drive but we didn't make it !. The vehicle died as we were going up a hill !. Eduardo arranged for a friend to pick us up and return us to Villas Lapas, where we had some food and given he needed to sort out the vehicle also arranged for another guide to take me into the Carara National Park tomorrow.

Stripe-headed Sparrow

Rufous-backed Wren

Thursday 23rd January - Carara National Park.

I was out at first light walking down to reception through the riverside forest there was a lot of bird song and some activity but right at the tops of the tallest trees but I did manage to make out a Bright-rumped Attilla and a Blue-throated Sapphire.

I was picked up by Santiago, who was a local birder and colleague of Eduardo. We drove a short distance to to some trails in the Carara National Park starting at the Sendero National. A large forest with well laid out walkways, we soon found some different species including some I did not think I would see.

A Ruddy Quail-Dove was flushed from the track then a calling bird was seen in the undergrowth turned in to 2 Streak-chested Antpitta's.

Further into the forest near the Bonita Creek trail a White-lipped Pecary (like a small Boar) was feeding by the edge of a stream and a pair of Tropical Royal Flycatchers were seen at close quarters . Velvety Manakin, Riverside Wren and Orange-billed Sparrows were also new before we exited the forest and the trails started to get busier with visitors.

Santiago new well the birds of the area and we stopped at a couple of other sites firstly the River trail of the Carara NP where Orange-collared Manakin, Ruddy-tailed Flycatcher and Black-hooded Antshrike were good additions.

Then to some dry forest with Eucalypt-type trees where my first White-throated Magpie-Jay was a bonus and a  Yellow-Crowned Euphonia was also new.

Just outside the Hotel Cerro Lodge a Pacific Screech Owl was found roosting in a tree and we eventually found a very smart Turquoise-browed Motmot. Our final drive round agricultural fields eventually added a Plain-breasted Ground Dove and a Philadelphia Vireo.

I was dropped back at the hotel just after midday and at lunchtime Eduardo turned up with a new vehicle having been rescued back to San Jose. We went into Joca and found a good taco restaurant for lunch, relaxed in the afternoon and then went to another nearby Fish restaurant for dinner. 

Streak-chested Antpitta

White-lipped Pecary

Tropical Royal Flycatcher

Tropical Royal Flycatcher

Riverside Wren

Velvety Manakin (f)

Black-hooded Antshrike

White-whiskered Puffbird

Orange-billed Sparrow

Pacific Screech Owl

Gartered Trogon

Turquoise-browed Motmot

Turquoise-browed Motmot

Friday 24th January- Tarcoles River and to Rio del Mar

We had another early morning boat trip along the Tarcoles River before we left Villa Lapas. The river was muddy and not as picturesque as the mangroves in La Ensenada and appears to be a very popular boating area. However we did see some bits of interest. More Yellow-crowned Night Herons on the river banks, Northern Tropical Pewee and Mangrove Warbler down one of the side channels, 

Many of the same waders we had seen before as well as some Wilsons Plover, Double-striped Thick- Knees, Bat Falcon, Northern Rough-winged Swallow and Mangrove Swallow.

After breakfast and packing up from Villa Lapas we again headed south in our new vehicle stopping en-route at a great lunch place called Ronny's, who was a friend of Eduardo's. We stayed in our accommodation at Rio del Mar in the afternoon.

Boat trip on the Tarcoles river

Yellow-crowned Night Heron

Prothonotary Warbler

Wilson's Plovers

Semi-palmated plover and Least Sandpiper

Brown Pelican

Bare-throated Tiger Heron

Magnificent Frigatebird (juv)

Magnificent Frigatebirds

Mangrove Warbler

Mangrove Warbler

Northern Tropical Pewee

Bat Falcon

Crocodile

Double-striped Thick-Knees

Mangrove Swallow

Saturday 25th January - Waterfall hike

A slightly different day as we hiked to a Waterfall, where you can swim in the pools. It was a hot walk and I saw very few birds but it was a stunning location and well worth the effort. We spent the afternoon relaxing back at the hotel.

Sunday 26th January - Highland diversion and travel to Golfito

 Our itinerary did not include spending anytime in the highlands but I had mentioned to Eduardo that if there was any site he knew close to our route where there was a chance of the Resplendent Quetzal then would he consider this as this bird is probably at the top of most peoples wanted lists on a visit to Costa Rica.

There wasn't really any site close to anywhere on route, but Eduardo offered to take me to the San Gerado valley to try for the Quetzal this morning. The challenge was we had to leave Rio del Mar by 11am and the San Gerado valley was at least 3 hours away so we would have at most 2 hours to find a Quetzal before needing to return.

We decided to give it a go. Eduardo very kindly agreed to a 2.30am start and just before it got light we were heading down the road into the San Gerado de Dota valley. It was a popular site with already 20+ people gathered along the roadside with their guides hoping for a Quetzal sighting. We were not disappointed as the dawn chorus broke a Quetzal was calling not far from the roadside but hidden. After a while someone shouted that it had flown across the road about 100m away. It started calling again as the group moved down the road and after a few minutes of panic the bird was found high up but visible through a window and remained for c 3minutes. A fantastic male Resplendent Quetzal. This early success meant that we still had a little more time than originally thought to check a couple of places in the valley. A little further along the road a Black-billed Nightingale Thrush hoped along the road and a Sooty Thrush and Northern Tufted Flycatcher we next to the road edge. we also saw a Black-faced Solitaire and Mountain Thrush before we reached the Hotel Savegre where there were some Hummingbird feeders. We spent nearly an hour here and managed several new species including

Purple-throated Mountaingem, White-throated Mountaingem, Talamanca Hummingbird, Long-tailed Silky Flycatcher and Rose-breasted Grosbeak, 

We left the valley and stopped on the main road at a cafe, unfortunately they no longer had feeders present but we did find a Scintillant Hummingbird on some verbena bushes. We continued the journey arriving back at the hotel at 11am and immediately packed and left the premises for the long drive to Golfito.

Resplendent Quetzal

Resplendent Quetzal

Northern Tufted Flycatcher

Sooty Thrush

Lesser Violetear

Rose-breasted Grosbeak

Talamanca Hummingbird

Tropical Mockingbird

Talamanca Hummingbird

Acorn Woodpecker

Talamanca Hummingbird

White-throated Mountaingem

We were able to divert en-route to a coffee farm where the owner kindly gave as a brief tour and a tasting even though we hadn't booked. It was great to see how the coffee goes from plant to pot and hear about some of the growing challenges with the unpredictable climate changes.

Coffee beans

Drying the beans

Making the coffee from the crushed beans .... it was very good !

We arrived late in our hotel in Golfito.. probably not one we would have chosen with more research but it would serve a purpose for a couple of nights.

Monday 27th January - Golfito area.

This is the third consecutive year I have spent my birthday overseas, in a hot country. Not a problem, when my birthday is the end of January and the weather is normally awful.

We had booked a boat trip into the bay this morning looking for wildlife, although we weren't entirely sure what this would equate to. It was again great weather, clear blue skies and still waters. We tried various bays without seeing too much and actually the flock of Royal Terns and Laughing Gulls as we left the dock was the best we had seen but eventually we had the most amazing experience with a pod of 75-100 Dolphins which we followed for about 20 minutes both Bottle-nosed and Striped, who were feeding and occasionally breaching.

Trip over we then went to lunch in a very chic beach bar-restaurant followed by a hike through the forest up to a viewpoint. Other than a Long-billed Hermit I didn't see many birds through the forest walk, but there were at least one if not two Three-wattled Bellbirds, calling from the very tops of trees. Despite spending a fair time trying to see them, they remained hidden and eventually stopped calling.

We had a great meal in the evening in a new complex in the harbour as a birthday celebration.

The Golfito bay

Laughing Gulls and Royal Terns

Dolphins

Bottle-nosed Dolphin, captured the moment !

Fernando was the Coati who we had to pay the donation for the forest to.

From the viewpoint we climbed to looking at the Osa Peninsula where we were heading tomorrow 

Costa Rican Birthday celebration !!

Tuesday 28th January - Osa Peninsula

We had a transfer booked on the ferry to take us to the OSA Peninsula this morning, we said our goodbye's to Eduardo who had been our great guide / driver / bird and wildlife guru and companion for the last 2 weeks. The Ferry was a sort of Speedboat that toook around 30 people on a first come first on board basis and was full, but we squeezed on with our luggage and were duly met by Dennis, who was our guide for our 3 night stay at Bosque de Cabo. 

The drive there was only around an hour, on on route having established that Dennis was an expert wildlife photographer and used to be a birder before photography took over his life. A quick stop on the roadside to show us a Common Potoo roosting before we arrived at the the secluded Cabo Del Bosque lodge. We had been given an absolutely massive cabin that was like a 4 bedroom detached house and was about a 25 minute walk from reception - although we could call and they would send a land rover to give us a lift.

We settled in then I had a late afternoon walk through the forest with Dennis. 

Highlights : Golden-crowned SPadebill, Grey headed Tanager, White-browed Gnatcatcher

Pale-billed Woodpecker, Slaty-tailed Trogon. Spider Monkeys

Dinner - communal style. 30-35 guests.

Wednesday 29th January - Osa Peninsula

Early mornign forest walk, the La Perdita,, Rincon Bridge, Night Walk

Our Cabin !!

Could probably house 10 people

From the front 'Casa Coco'

Common Potoo

Spider Monkeys

Yellow-headed Caracara

Spider Monkey

Pale-billed Woodpecker

White-faced Capuchin

view across bay to Panama

Golden-Crowned Spadebill

Golden-crowned Spadebill

Spider Monkey

Grey-headed Tanager

Wednesday 29th January - Osa Peninsula

I went for a pre-breakfast forest walk with Dennis through a section of the wonderful rainforest which is within the vast property. A Masked Tytira (a cross between a Stoat and an Otter) ran across the path as we started.

We found a number of good species in particular a very smart Black-throated Trogon the endemic Black-cheeked Ant Tanager, Red-crowned Woodpecker and Golden-naped Woodpecker an obliging Black-faced Ant-thrush and a fortunate moment where luckily Dennis saw the snake curled up on the path partly hidden by a root which crossed the path, we stopped just in time before stepping over the root otherwise we might have been in trouble with the Fleur-de-Lance that was in our way !!!. We also saw a small Anteater known as a Northern Tamandua before it vanished into it's hole.

Masked Tytira

White-tipped Pecary

Black-cheeked Ant-Tanager

Black-cheeked Ant-Tanager

Northern Timandua

Black-faced Antthrush

Black-faced Antthrush

Fleur-de-Lance No.2

Black-throated Trogon

Black-throated Trogon

After a lovely breakfast we agreed with Dennis for  him to take us to his grandparents place which was a smallholding that they've turned into a small nature reserve that specialises in Sloths called La Perita (which means Sloth).

We travelled through some open fields - Scarlet Macaw, Ruddy-breasted Seedeater, Morelet's Seedeater, then stopped on the edge of the town at a beach car park and found a 2-toed Sloth high in a tree and a Fiery-billed Aracari was in nearby trees. We went to Dennis's place where we had great views of a 3-Toed Sloth with young. There was also a Yellow-bellied Flycatcher, Tawny-winged Woodcreeper, Red-eyed Vireo and a Bronzed Cowbird.

We then drove to another area and visited a school-house, which had many verbena bushes where we hoped for a few hummingbirds and settled with views of Band-tailed Barbthroat and Charming Hummingbird. By the roadside Bicolored Antbird, Velvety Manakin and the very smart male Orange-collared Manakin.

Our last stop was at the well known Rincon Bridge, Often a site where the otherwise difficult Yellow-billed Cotinga can be seen, although I didn't expect to be as easy as one flying over as soon as I stepped out of the car. We must have seen 3 or 4 different individuals also Fiery-billed Aracari, Scarlet-rumped Cacique, Grey-capped Flycatcher and a couple of calls of the Turquoise Cotinga did not yield a view.

We returned to the lodge, had another good dinner and had booked ourselves on a night walk with other guests and a local guide. We saw plenty of general wildlife including a few bats, several Frogs and Toads, a couple of Tarantulas and another Fleur-de-Lance !!! - slightly off-putting how common they seemed.

Known as the Tourist tree as the bark turns red then peels.

Scarlet Macaws

2-Toed Sloth - with young

Yellow-throated Toucan

A new catering area at Dennis's family place La Perita

3-Toed Sloth

3 Toed Sloth

Baby Sloth

White-tipped Dove

Roadside Hawk

Bicolored Antbird

Bicolored Antbird

Velvety Manakin

Orange Collared Manakin

Charming Hummingbird

Yellow-billed Cotinga

Yellow-billed Cotinga

Tarantula

Thursday 30th January - Osa Peninsula

I managed another pre-breakfast walk in the forest with Dennis this morning, we obviously saw many of the same species as yesterday although did manage a couple of different birds with Grey-headed Chachalaca, Red-capped Manakin, Ochre-crowned Greenlet and Dot-winged Antwren.

We drove to a house for lunch, which happened to be the family home of Dennis's girlfriend and also had a troop of Squirrel Monkeys in the property. From there we drove through an area of farmland seeing both Red-breasted and Eastern Meadowlarks and a Lineated Woodpecker, before arriving at another hotel retreat called La Luna, which is a luxury spa, but seems to have a useful viewpoint over forest. Other than some Honeycreepers, another Charming Hummingbird and a distant Black-crowned Tytira not much was on offer so we drove back late afternoon.

Squirrel Monkeys

From the viewpoint at La Luna

Grey-headed Chachalaca

Red-capped Manakin

Red-capped Manakin

Green Honeycreeper

Friday 31st January - Back to San Jose

Our last full day was principally a travel day. Dennis was due to drive us back to San Jose, We arranged to meet him at the office in Puerto Jiminez and had an early transfer for the hour journey back to town. After a wait whilst Dennis sorted out vehicles we were eventually away around 10ish for the long drive. 

Dennis had a plan to stop en-route at a place called Garden House in the highlands. After a lunch stop we arrived there around 2.30pm. It turned out to be one of the highlights, it was a small proprty nestled on the edge of a ridge with forest surrounds and set up with a small overlook with some feeders and plenty of flowering shrubs.  I had no idea this final stop would give me 8 lifers and such good views of many different birds.

The lifer birds were Snowy-bellied Hummingbird, Violet Sabrewing, White-tailed Emerald, White-crested Coquette, Sulphur-winged Parakeets, Brown Jay, Elegant Euphonia and Spot-crowned Euphonia. Other great views included Lesson's Motmot, Golden-hooded Tanager, Speckled Tanager, Silver-throated Tanager, Red-faced Spinetail, Red-headed Barbet, Baltimore Oriole and Red-headed Blackbird.

It was difficult to drag ourselves away but we were still a long way from our airport hotel, leaving just after 4pm, we eventually got stuck in San Jose traffic but found a very good steak house to have a meal, then eventually arrived at Xandari Resort after 10.30pm and said goodbye to Dennis who had been a brilliant guide.

White-tailed Emerald

White-crested Coquette

White-crested Coquette

Snowy-bellied Hummingbird

Snowy-bellied Hummingbird

Spot-crowned Euphonia

Violet Sabrewing

Buff-throated Saltator

Silver-throated Tanager

Green Honeycreeper (f) & (m)

Lesson's Motmot

Speckled Tanager

Saturday 1st January - Back to UK

The resort hotel was quite nice, but we had little time to enjoy before leaving for the airport and a smooth transit and flight home. What a fantastic non-birding trip - over 300 species seen and well over 100 new. !! - great people, great accommodation / transport easy food good .. easily a place to come back to.