Paul Matson's Birding Blog: Colombia (PART II)

Rough map of our coastline route

Day 18 - Saturday 9th March

As we had relocated to a different part of Colombia, it seemed logical to split the blog into 2 sections, even though this part was much shorter. We would firstly drive towards Riohacha from Santa Marta, then spend a morning near Minca, before 4 days in the Santa Marta Mountains, returning to Barranquilla via the Salamanca National Park.

Being a significantly different part of the country the birds would also have a change in species, with another 20+ endemics to find in the area, particularly when we go to the Santa Marta mountains.

To start today we left the hotel at 5am with bags loaded and headed up the coastline towards Riohacha, stopping at dawn along a road bordered by dry scrub. Our first endemic target was the Chestnut-winged Chacalaca and right on queue we had a number of these birds leaving their roost and feeding in the coastal scrub. After a field breakfast we had a very productive hour or so picking up a number of other species with Whooping Motmot, Lineated Woodpecker, Red-crowned Woodpecker, Crested Bobwhite, Black-crested Antshrike, Brown-throated Parakeet, Forest Elaenia, Pale-bellied Hermit, Northern Mouse-coloured Tyrannulet, Ochre-lored Flatbill, Sapphire-throated Hummingbird and Olive-Grey Saltator.

We then headed along the coast and out to the Guajira Peninsula, where firstly we stopped in a forest area finding two of the target birds for the site, Lance-tailed Manakin and White-necked Puffbird. We also lucked into a White-chinned Sapphire, Buff-breasted Wren, Trilling Gnatwren, Orange-crowned Oriole, Blue Dacnis, an out-of-place Capped Heron in a large tree and Prothonotary Warbler.

We moved on stopping enroute at a field gate where we added a Blue-crowned Parakeet and had a surprise flyover Osprey and then another small forest clearing where we had a short walk into the scrub we located several Rufous-vented Chachalacas and a Crane Hawk.

As we made our way to the small town of Camerones we stopped alongside a flooded field, where both Greater and Lesser Yellowlegs were present along with Limpkin, Wattled Jacana, Savanna Hawk, Lesser Yellow-headed Vultures, Snail Kite and American White Ibis.

We arrived in Camerones and picked up a local guide who took us to a small area of desert scrub on the edge of town which borders the Los Flamencos National Park and without walking a great distance (it was very hot at this stage, we soon found Orinoco Saltator, Bare-eyed Pigeon, Red-billed Emerald, Green-rumped Parrotlet, White-Whiskered Spinetail, Northern Scrub Flycatcher, Slender-billed Inezia and Glaucous Tanager. The scrub had lots of cactus so this truly felt like desert and a dramatic change from the Andes scenery of the previous 3 weeks.

To end the day we went to the nearby estuary, known as the Camerones Lagoon and picked up many waders and waterbirds which we hadn't seen on the trip so far.

Decent numbers of Least,Western and Semi-palmated Sandpipers were accompanied by a few Sanderling, Grey Plover and Semi-palmated Plover. Short-billed Dowitchers, Willets, Hudsonian Whimbrel and American Oystercatchers were dotted around the mud with some of the rarer Wilson's Plovers.

Little Blue Heron, Reddish Egret and Snowy Egret were in the creeks and a couple of Roseate Spoonbills were seen and some distant Scarlet Ibis and there were groups of Black Skimmers hawking over the water with Royal Terns, Cabot's Terns and Laughing Gulls.

If it wasn't for the rapidly setting sun, it would have been hard to tear us away as there was so much to look at scanning the whole area. We drove to hotel, the Gumaura in Riohacha and went over the road to a beach-side restaurant for dinner to end the excellent first day in this area.

Breakfast stop for Chachalacas

.. with adjacent scrub the birds seemed to like

Crested Bobwhite

Chestnut-winged Chachalaca

Whooping Motomot

Lineated Woodpecker

Northern Scrub-Flycatcher

Black-crested Antshrike

Red-crowned Woodpecker

Lance-tailed Manakin (female)

Lance-tailed Manakin (male)

Golden-fronted Greenlet

Tropical Red Squirrel ?

Rufous-tailed Jacamar

White-necked Puffbird

Orange-crowned Oriole

Capped Heron

Lunch Stop

This stop at gate gave us the Blue-crowned Parakeets

Flooded field held a few waterbirds and birds of prey.

Snail Kite

Desert Scrub near Camerones

Proper Cactus

Red-billed Emerald (the red is only the lower mandible and is impossible to see)

Orinoco Saltator

Russet-throated Puffbird

Our guides at the Los Flamencos sign

Camerones Lagoon

Camerones Lagoon looking over the Caribbean Sea

Camerones Lagoon

Reddish Egret

Snowy-Egret

Black Skimmers

Day 19 - Sunday 10th March

We left our hotel at 5am and went back to the Camerones area, picking up our guide again then firstly stopping in a dry arid area of scrub. Our first bird of the morning hawking around the vehicle in the crepuscular light was a Lesser Nighthawk, this was followed shortly by a pair of Double-striped Thick-knees then a surprise Buff-necked Ibis which landed briefly on a Telegraph pylon.

We stopped at an open area for a field breakfast but continued to bird as we ate, this area held a number of species that we needed to find. To start we had more Bare-eyed Pigeons, a Yellow Oriole and then sought after male Vermillion Cardinal which was nice in the scope but not near enough for photos.

We started to walk through the arid scrublands and soon came across a calling Ferruginous Pygmy Owl, which after some searching we managed to see reasonably well. Further on a our guide found a Trinidad Euphonia. We also added Pale-tipped Inezia and Chestnut Piculet. Probably the main target bird was the Tocuyo Sparrow, which we searched for in a thicker are of scrub with a dry understorey. Our guide thought he heard the barely audible call of the bird, but we were having no luck until eventually one was seen briefly flit tough. After more searching we came across this very furtive bird and managed to see the Tocuyo Sparrow through branches on the dry floor, although never close. We moved on , picking up a Black-backed Antshrike and a Common Ground Dove. It felt like a fairly long walk in the heat back to the bus, and we went to the equivalent of a local cafe with some feeders, that produced a Buffy Hummingbird, Blacfaced Grassquit, Orinoco Saltator along with Yellow Oriole, Scaled Dove, Carib Grackle.

Most of us agreed to go to a 'hidden' lagoon which was a short drive and a reasonable walk. The lagoon was quite reedy and held a few different species such as Blue-winged Teal, American Wigeon, a stray Ring-necked Duck, Least Grebe, Green Heron, Great Blue Heron and a Belted Kingfisher.

We returned to the cafe to pick up stragglers and a10 Brown Pelicans flew over. We then drove back for a quick visit to the Camerones Lagoon, where we were last night. A similar set of species were there with the addition of a Common Tern and Tricolored Heron.

We then had a fairly long drive back towards Minca, stopping for lunch on the way. We arrived at a road / side track around 5pm where there was a viewpoint over forested valleys and our target was to find Military Macaws coming into roost. WE started by seeing a Zone-tailed Hawk and a Keel-billed Toucan, and just as the light was going we heard then saw Military Macaws flying over the far ridge to find their roost we had a great experience and in the end counted 52 individuals. Although common in captivity this bird is listed as Vulnerably threatened, so it was good to see this population, although you worry for their habitat being maintained.

Our hotel for the night in Minca was fairly close so we ended another great day.

Morning field breakfast

More Cactus

Very spiky

Double-striped Thick-Knee

Ferruginous Pygmy Owl

Trinidad Euphonia

An almost hidden Tocuyo Sparrow

Flowering Cactus

Common Ground Dove

Red-crowned Woodpecker

Straight-billed Woodcreeper

Buffy Hummingbird

Orinoco Saltator

Black-faced Grassquit

Scaled Dove

Yellow Oriole

Rufous-tailed Jacamar

White-whiskered Spinetail

The 'hidden' lagoon

Blue-winged Teal

Crested Caracara

Buffy Hummingbird

Part of the Tern flock Royal, Cabot's and Caspian Terns with Laughing Gulls

Same Terns with a single Common Tern

Our great leader decided to investigate the Terns a little closer - shame I didn't capture the moment he fell over !

Zone-tailed Hawk

Military Macaws

Day 20 - Monday 11th March

Minca was located at the start of the ascent into the isolated Sierra Nevada Mountain range and we would be focussing on the Santa Marta mountains and today we had swapped into 4WD vehicles and continued along this road, a stop in the dark and we were out for a session of Owling, and before too long we were viewing 2 Black-and-White Owls in the spotlight. We had the rest of the day to spend winding our way up the track into the Santa Marta mountains, where the habitat change from the foothills up to the sub-tropics and with that a number of species and endemics.

Black-and-white Owl

The first track we entered shortly after dawn held a Keel-billed Toucan, Chestnut-capped Warbler, Rufous-breasted Wren, Pale-eyed Pygmy Tyrant, Black-chested Jay, Scaled Piculet, Forest Elaenia and a few Tennessee Warblers. We tried another track, trying hard to see a calling Rosy-Thrush Tanager, but it remained hidden we did manage to see a Rufous-and-white Wren, which initially didn't look as if it would appear and picked up a Crested Oropendola and a Black-striped Sparrow.

We crossed the road and started to head up a Forest track seeing a Bi-coloured Hawk on the way in. We found an ant swarm which was being attended by Grey-headed Tanager, Ruddy Woodcreeper, Plain-Brown Woodcreepers (surprisingly not Antbirds). We found a group of Collared Aracaris and added Golden-winged Sparrow but as it got to late morning the lowland forest was very quiet.

We then started to ascend to higher altitudes and the endemic lists started to grow in thicker forest, as we found Santa-Marta Foliage Gleaner, Santa Marta Antbird and Santa Marta Tapaculo. We also managed to see an Orange-billed Nightingale Thrush a White-lored Warbler and the first of many Yellow-legged Thrush.

We arrived at Mountain House Bird Lodge, an attractive property with a good lunch restaurant and a veranda overlooking a well stocked garden and feeders.

We were quite happy taking in the many Santa Marta Brushfinches, Black-headed Tanagers and hummingbirds such as Brown Violetear, Crowned Woodnymph, Steely-vented Hummingbird, but were even more delighted when we found the endemic Santa Marta Blossomcrown.

In the late afternoon we arrived at the San Lorenzo Lodge, which has apparently become more upmarket since the last birding groups visited. Even though the rooms we had were quite nice, they were miles from anywhere, as the main lodge building and dining room had been moved almost a mile uphill for the expensive guests !. After some discussions it was agreed that some food would be brought down to a closed building for us that evening, but it didn't really work, we made do for tonight but we would have to re-join the main dining tomorrow.

Keel-billed Toucan

Bay-headed Tanager

Black-striped Sparrow

Scaled Piculet

Crested Oropendula

Golden-winged Sparrow

Santa Marta Antbird

Santa Marta Tapaculo

Views from Mountain House

Views from Mountain House veranda

From Mountain House Veranda

Inside Mountain House

Not sure on this, might be Steely -vented Hummingbird

Black-headed Tanager

Brown Violetear

Collared Inca

Tennessee Warbler

Yellow-legged Thrush

Day 21 - Tuesday 12th March

We left the lodge at 4.45am in the jeeps and ascended the steep and very bumpy track up to the San Lorenzo Ridge. Our schedule meant that we had the morning to find as many of the Santa Marta endemics as possible.

The birding started promptly finding the Santa Marta Bush Tyrant, Santa Marta Warbler, and Yellow-crowned Whitestart failry promptly, a close Flammulated Treehunter gave a partial view in a dense bush. We then had views of both endemic Spinetails Streak-Capped Spinetail and Rusty-headed Spinetail.

At some feeders we had a White-tailed Starfrontlet and then great views of a Santa Marta Antpitta. The recently split Santa Marta Mountain Tanager was seen and along a track we had great views of a Hermit Wood-Wren and a Sierra Nevada Antpitta.

We had been keeping a watch for the Santa Marta Parakeet, we had a few calls but no sighting and as the morning edged on we needed to head down the hill. We stopped for lunch at a small hostel where some feeders held a Santa Marta Woodstar and before we got back into the jeeps, a Brown-rumped Tapaculo was encouraged into view.

The original plan was to do some birding lower down the mountain and on some trails around the lodge, but instead we decided to return tot he top of the ridge and focus on finding the Santa Marta Parakeets, as it would likely be our last chance. We spent a fair amount of time waiting, with some more Parakeet calls heard but no sighting. A Merlin was sitting out on a tree stump, when one of the local guides called us to a track as he had heard some Parakeets, we were walking up the track and after around 10 minutes more calls were heard and suddenly 4 Santa Marta Parakeets flew over our heads and landed in a nearby tree, fed for around 10 minutes before disappearing. There was much elation that we had found these birds and it meant that late afternoon we could head back to the lodge. We had one surprise on the way down seeing a briefly perched Black-and Chestnut Eagle and reasonable views of a White-tipped Quetzel to end the day.

Breaking Daw on the San Lorenzo ridge

Selfie ?

Santa Marta Bush-Tyrant

Santa Marta Warbler

Yellow-crowned Whitestart

Streak-capped Spinetail

Santa Marta Antpitta

Santa Marta Mountain Tanager

White-tailed Starfrontlet

Black-throated Tody Tyrant

The rock was fairly uncomfortable

View at the top of San Lorenzo Ridge back to Santa Marta

After lunch.. we were looking for a a Brown-rumped Tapaculo, even though it looks like we were all vomiting our lunch.

Merlin

Santa Marta Parakeet

Hermit Wood-Wren

White-tipped Quetzel

Black-and- Chestnut Eagle

.. looking up at a Quetzel

Day 22 - Wednesday March 13th

Having had our success up on the highest elevations yesterday, we were concentrating on the slopes below the lodge today, giving us the slightest of lie ins as we didn't leave the lodge until 5.15am. I would note that I was up at least 30 minutes before any departure time (more if we were taking packed bags).

We drove down to an area near Palo Alto and spent the morning between here and Mountain Lodge.

We had some successes with finding Rusty-breasted Antpitta, Sierra Nevada Brushfinch, Golden-breasted Fruiteater, Groove-billed Toucanet, Grey-throated Leaftosser, Crimson Crested Woodpecker, a White-necked Thrush and Blue-naped Chlorophonia.

We had a coffee break at a small cafe with a vista over the valley, seeing another Blue-naped Chlorophonia, White-collared Swifts and Turkey Vultures. A little further along the road we had a Coopman's Tyrannulet and Crested Oropendola's.

Later in the afternoon we returned to the lodge and went up to the dining area and continued walking on a high forest trail late into the evening on one where we had views of a Slaty-backed Nightingale Thrush. A calling Barred Forest Falcon, failed to show itself and we decided to stay on the trail until after dark with great success as we had good views of a Santa Marta Screech Owl and after some patience also found a Mottled Owl.

The dining room just about waited for us before they shut and we had a long walk downhill after dinner back to the rooms, although we did see a couple of Tarantulas on the trail.

More early morning views

Blue-naped Chlorophonia

White-necked Thrush

Montane Foliage Gleaner

Strong-billed Woodcreeper

Rusty-breasted Antpitta

Crimson-crested Woodpecker

Crimson-Crested Woodpecker

White-Collared Swift

Turkey Vulture

Coopman's Tyrannulet

Santa Marta Blossomcrown

White-tipped Quetzel

Santa Marta Screech Owl

Day 23 - Thursday 14th March

Our last full days birding began when we left the lodge at 4.30am firstly stopping around Mountain House where we had another field breakfast and after some work we found a Spectacled Tyrannulet along with a Streaked Xenops, Swallow Tanager, Santa Marta Woodstar, Santa Marta Brushfinch, Scarlet-fronted Parrot, Yellow-backed Oriole and Yellow-legged Thrush.

We descended further on the Road and tried again, this time successfully for Rosy-Thrush Tanager, it certainly took a bit of effort locating the bird that was calling but eventually it showed itself.

We continued walking down the road as the heat started to increase, but only occasionally seeing birds most of which we had already recorded. We had more views of the Santa Marta Woodstar and Spectacled Tyrannulet in a bird flock also holding Sepia-caped Flycatcher, Black-and White Warbler, Mourning Warbler and Rose-breasted Grosbeak

We also went down to Hotel Minca La Casona, where we had an Ice cream and cold drinks in the heat and watched more hummingbird feeders we added a new hummer in a Rufous-breasted Hermit and had great views of White-necked Jacobin, White-vented Plumeleteer, Steely-vented Hummingbird and Rufous-tailed Hummingbird.

Our next stop was in the Lower slopes on the way to Minca, which had been our first stop on the way up. We followed a trail in the heat, having good views of a soaring Black Hawk Eagle.

Moving back up to the road, we found an area that generated a lot of bird interest as there was a leaky pipe in a clearing spraying water everywhere and the birds were congregating to bathe and drink. As well as Scaled Piculet, Streak-headed Woodpecker and Yellow-bellied Elaenia we had another new hummer in Coppery Emerald as well as Purple Honeycreeper, Red-legged Honeycreeper, Blue Dacnis, Lesser Goldfinch and a Lesser Elaenia.

It was late afternoon and we made our way back to Santa Marta to the Hotel B La Sierra for a final dinner.

Streaked Xenops

Yellow-legged Thrush

Santa Marta Woodstar

Spectacled Tyrannulet

Black-and-White Warbler

Rufous-tailed Hummingbird

White-necked Jacobin

White-vented Plumeleteer ?

Black Hawk Eagle

Scaled Piculet

Red-thighed Honeycreeper

Day 24 - Friday 15th March

Even though today was departure day, we still had a few hours this morning before we needed to head to the airport around lunchtime.

The route to Barranquilla took us past a Mangrove Reserve in the Salamanca National Park, we could only stay here for an hour but it was very productive, firstly finding an endemic Sapphire-bellied Hummingbird then adding Bi-colored Conebill, , Red-rumped Woodpecker, Panama Flycatcher, Yellow-chinned Spinetail. Pied Water Tyrant, straight-billed Woodcreeper, Solitary Sandpiper, Northern Water Thrush.

An area called Palermo in the marshes closer to Barranquilla was our next stop, firstly for our last field breakfast, then for some birding , we quickly found a Stripe-backed Wren, Great Kiskadee, Pearl Kite, Ringed Kingfisher, Brown-throated Parakeets and Olive-Grey Saltator. As we moved towards the marshier areas it was already getting very hot, we added a Chestnut Piculet, Wattled Jacana, Purple Gallinule, Common Gallinule, White-headed Marsh Tyrant and Social Flycatcher.

Further along the track we found a Caribbean Hornero on a nest, and saw a Black-Collared Hawk with plenty of Snail Kites. There was one bird we had been looking for that we eventually caught up with the localised Turquoise-winged Parrotlet, that we had good views of. Also localised, we found a Bronze-Brown Cowbird amongst a group of Shiny Cowbirds.

There wasn't much wet marsh visible, but we did see a a small flock of Glossy Ibis a Roseate Spoonbill and and some Large-billed Terns with Brown-chested Martins hawing over the fields.

A hot and sweaty walk back to the bus, we made one final roadside stop as we approached Baranquilla where 2 Northern Screamers were present and a surprise Lesser Capybara showed itself briefly in the undergrowth.

So that was it for the birding, we were able to change and re-pack for the flights in an motel outside the airport before arriving at the airport for a spot of lunch before everyone headed off for their flights after a fantastic trip in a wonderful country, where we recorded well over 700 species.

I flew back to Bogota and stayed overnight in an airport hotel before flying back to the UK the next day with Iberia, without any problems.